As you develop your palate for wine, it is probably only a matter of time before you begin to find intrigue in the diversity of the world of cheese and the almost endless opportunities to mix and match the two. It should come as no surprise that both cheese and wine traverse a similar path on their respective course to the finished product. Both are terroir driven, cheese by the nutritional choices to nourish goats, cows and sheep and wine by the soil in which the vines are grown. Both are also fermented, aged and hold their style and perfection for some period of time until they begin to deteriorate. Each offers a wide diversity of textures, aromas and flavors and many of the European countries have even developed appellations for the cheeses, analogous to wine.

Over the last decade, US consumers have increased their appetite for cheese by nearly 20% per capita according to the US Department of Agriculture. This growth is part of larger thirst by Americans for increased culinary and wine knowledge. This interest has not gone unnoticed, the media flooding magazine racks with food and beverage publications, television networks offering culinary segments hosted by celebrity chefs and sommeliers and the internet offering an almost endless source of information. Add to this the ease of international travel offering opportunities to sample European cuisine and wines and it is no wonder that our palates are in overdrive. On a local basis, farmers’ markets seem to spring up seasonally, offering enticing selections of farm fresh foods including cheeses, tempting us further.

So with such a diversity of cheeses available at your local market, where does one start in pairing a favorite wine with cheese? As with wine, think about your preferences in texture, in style, in flavors and aromas. Just as you may prefer bold and tannic wines such as Bordeaux, Malbec or Northern Rhones, you may also prefer “strong” or stinky cheeses such as Epoisses or Roquefort. Or perhaps you prefer buttery and oaky Chardonnays and more mild and buttery cheeses such as Triple Cream Brie. Once you have settled on your preference(s), you can begin to narrow your universe of wines to match.

Cheese is essentially curdled milk. Curdling is initiated by adding a protease enzyme called rennin. The process of curdling separates the milk into curds (the “clumps”) and whey (the liquid). After the whey is drained, the cheese curdles are cut, pressed and aged. As the cheese ages, it becomes more firm from water loss and its flavor become more complex.

“With more age,
the cheese takes on
a more typical
earthy mouthfeel.”

There are, essentially, three “fountains” if you will for cheese: goat, cow and sheep, each imparting distinct flavors and aromas. Goat cheese tends to be the least fatty of the three with only 3.5% fat content. Freshly aged cheeses tend to be light, clean and somewhat acidic sporting a herbal or grassy aroma along with lemony flavor. With more age, the cheese takes on a more typical earthy mouthfeel. Production of goat cheeses are somewhat seasonal with the best produced between March and November. Examples of goat cheese are Brunet, Valencay, Garrotxa and Manchester. Cow’s cheese fat content weighs in at 3.7%, adding a little more creaminess to the cheese. The cow milk is the basis for what is known as Alpine cheese, those cheeses with a common origin in the Alps and a similar style. The Alpine cheeses tend to be firm in texture, smooth with a full mouthfeel, even creamy, yet balanced by a pleasant acidity. The cheeses emit a soft and pleasant floral and grassy aroma intermingled with nutty and fruity elements. Examples of cow’s cheese would be Gruyere, Triple Cream Brie, Cheddars and Comte. Sheep cheese contains double the amount of cow fat at 7.4% adding to the buttery and rich mouthfeel of many of these cheeses. Example here are: Manchego, Marisa and Roquefort. Finally, the actual cheesemaking process, molds used and rind treatment can all play a role in the flavors and aromas and influence the choice of matching wine.

There are a few strategies to consider when matching wine and cheese. First and foremost, wine and cheese should complement and perhaps accent one another, a strategy employed in matching wine and food. Deep, tannic reds and rich, creamy or gooey cheeses are usually a poor match. The soft textured cheeses, such as brie, can make the red wine taste thin and bland. On other occasions, fresh young cheese can overly emphasize the tannins and imbalance the acidity.

“Consumers
have increased
their appetite
for cheese by
nearly 20%”

If you want a near guaranteed match with nearly all cheeses, both mild and stinky, think white wine, be it sweet or dry. The absence of tannins and presence of acidity enable the whites to handle the cheese world. The sweet whites balance a strong flavored cheese and the dry performs almost equally as well. In fact, while a white may be tauted as dry, often there is a hint of sweetness present. The Alsatian whites such as Gewurtztraminer, Riesling, Pinot Gris and Muscats can be a near perfect match. Making the white even more versatile is their ability to match with those cheeses that match better with reds such as a Manchego or Parmiggiano. In a Canadian study cited by The Wine Spectator posted by Harvey Steiman on October 26, 2006, it was concluded that a dry Riesling performed best with the greatest variety of cheeses. This makes sense as the wine is crisp, acidic and light. For acidic goat cheeses, think of a crisp, acidic white such as Sauvignon Blanc. For richer, soft-textured cheese, think of Chardonnay or Mersault. If you are looking for a red match, reach for a firm and mellow cheese such as Manchego or Dry Jack and match it with a Cabernet Sauvignon. Below, we have attached a simplified wine and cheese chart highlighting many of the more popular cheeses. We hope that it will get you started. Above all, remember that the most important match is the one that works for you. Have fun and explore………..nothing like testing your own palate……….

Tags: cheese, pairing wine with cheese, white wine