By Laura Williamson, Master Sommelier at Tucson’s VinTabla

When wine buffs think of Southern Rhone, the infamous Chateauneuf-du-Pape comes to mind, but for the majority of consumers, one mention of this French region and thoughts of ubiquitous Cotes du Rhone AOC flash before us. This is not surprising as this appellation comprises the majority of production in France (2nd only to the basic Bordeaux AOC) while still delivering excellent quality for an inexpensive bottle price. Luckily, perceived value relating to the vast outputs from Cotes du Rhone AOC usually exceed consumer expectations. This factor alone has enabled a steadfast prestigious reputation for Southern Rhone, and as a direct result, encouraged greater confidence with experimentation among wine lovers desiring an escape from the Cotes du Rhone safety-net.

What many consumers have yet to fully grasp is the existing dichotomy between Northern Rhone and Southern Rhone. The north hinges on single-varietal wines while the south unequivocally results from blended wines. This single attribute is the precursor to widely different profiles between the two regions. However, over-simplification of this pivotal point should be avoided as climate, varying soils and altitude also play a critical role in the diversification between the two regions. But the fact that most wines from the Southern Rhone can legally be comprised of 24 grapes (although in practice just 14 principle grapes are utilized) instead of just one clearly elucidates the extreme polarity between the two regional styles.

For red wines, Grenache Noir, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Cinsault and Carignan dominate the blends versus Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Roussanne and Marsanne for white wines. As a result, red wines tend toward sweet strawberry jam, grenadine and dried cranberry while white wines favor exotic fruits such as mango and guava, kissed with a touch of candied ginger. The sappy, juicy nature of both wines translates to easy-drinking, food-friendly styles that require minimal bottle age to allow instant consumer enjoyment.

Those willing to stray from the norm within Southern Rhone are in for a treat as the lesser-known appellations rarely fail to delight the senses due to greater nuance and perfumed complexity. Red wines tend to steal the limelight as many are truly capable of long-term aging whereas whites should be consumed young and fresh to avoid oxidation. Surpassed expectations coupled with affordable pricing mean any hassle incurred to divert mainstream appellations mostly ends with fortuitous discoveries for consumers.

First to mind and a personal favorite is the historical Lirac AOC located on the right bank of the Rhone River across from the more famous Chateauneuf-du-Pape zone. Though many consumers readily recognize the former and pay the high price point demanded by local growers, very few realize the ancient pedigree of Lirac, how it was linked to royalty during the 17th and 18th centuries and that it actually surpassed Chateauneuf-du-Pape in quality and reputation through the 18th century. The best producers include Domaine de Joncier and Chateau de Segriès who consistently deliver captivating red wines full of voluptuous, mouth-filling blackberry and boysenberry fruit layered with sun-baked saddle leather, grilled meats and crushed black pepper.

Vacqueyras AOC may even deliver a higher pedigree of quality more consistently in the eyes of wine critics, allowing justification for every penny of its worth and wowing consumers lucky enough to cross its path. With a greater amount of Mourvèdre in most blends, these wines tend to personify a more muscle-packed delivery coupled with denser glycerine and black cherry fruit interwoven with moist, rich potting soil, wild violets and plum jam. Tannins can tend toward firmness in youth, forcing a bit of bottle age before the seductive, velvety nature of this appellation begins to show. The absolute best producers worth seeking out include Domaine le Sang du Cailloux and the Biodynamic Montirius.

Another highly prized region known for a bit more finesse than the previous two is Gigondas AOC. The reason for the silkier essence of wines from this zone is the fact that a higher proportion of Grenache Noir grapes are incorporated, allowing the characteristic lush sweetness of Grenache to shine through effortlessly. Strawberry preserves, lilac, grenadine and crushed raspberries fit the profile of these excellent producers: Domaine de Cayron, Domaine les Pallières and the Biodynamically produced Montirius .

More bang for the buck within the basic Cotes du Rhone AOC include the 18 Villages that can append their name to the label. Finer quality is consistently the outcome, even if it does come with a bit higher cost, especially when these villages in particular grace the label: Rasteau, Séguret, Sablet, Vinsorbes,

The anomaly in S. Rhone is Tavel AOC, the most famous dry rosé-only zone in all of France. This wine is mainly a blend from Grenache and Cinsault and a power-packed, main-course accompli closer in style to a red wine than rosé. If you are unconvinced that dry rosé can be of serious nature, you owe it to yourself to give this style a try. Chateau d’Aqueria and Chateau de la Mordorée can unquestionably prove this point without fail, although the best season to source these gems is early summer.

Sadly, white wines of Southern Rhone incur greater difficulty when trying to live up to the stature of the reds due to the problematic heat spikes during vintages that result in lower acidity on the palate and flabby, uninspiring wines. The best years to showcase the whites are the cooler, more classic harvests similar to 2001 and 2004. Luckily, great balance resulted in 2007 even with warmer weather so depth and glycerine are counterbalanced with acid on the palate for these thick and juicy whites. Look for Guigal and St Cosme (organic) Cotes du Rhone Blanc.

There is no better time than the present to seek out new discoveries from Southern Rhone as the recent string of great vintages ensures a plethora of value-oriented offerings for consumers. Despite upward pressure on pricing of the stars of the region, some in the triple digits, there are many truly affordable wines waiting to be uncovered, all guaranteed to delight the palate and please the senses for just a nominal cost. You owe it to yourself to step outside the S. Rhone norm and experiment a bit. So what are you waiting for? Dally no further!

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Tags: Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Clairette, Cotes du Rhone, Gigondas, Grenache, Grenache Blanc, Lirac, Marsanne, Mouvedre, Rousanne, Syrah, Tavel, Vacquerays