Chris Horton on behalf of www.wineinquirer.com
Director of Beverage, JW Marriott Star Pass Resort and Spa
Tucson, AZ

Who needs nobility anyway? It seems a fitting attitude, especially in a New World wine culture like ours. We’ve never been as into royalty and nobility as our European counterparts. That is why it seems unlikely that even as our taste in wine styles has diverged so far from the Old World, we still cling so tightly to their ideals regarding which wine grapes are considered worthy of conversation, respect and even consumption. While sitting down to brush up a little on Malbec, I thumbed through a book I have always turned to for varietal information. I was surprised, but then again not- so-surprised, to find that Malbec only warranted a paragraph of conversation inside a chapter labeled “Lesser Varietals”, which appeared after several chapters on “Noble Grapes” and a lot of information on many varietals only French winemakers from the 1800’s would know much about.

If there were a category of great wines made from grape varietals that Europe has all but deserted but are embraced somewhere in the New World, it would have to include Malbec, Zinfandel and Carmenere. Unfortunately, as these semi-noble grapes have found new homes in the New World, they have been quickly pigeon-holed as “National Varietals”. The love of these grape varietals is found almost exclusively in countries like the United States- Zinfandel, Argentina- Malbec and Chile- Carmenere and has kept them out of global obscurity. However, it is also the reason why many people consider them somewhat cliché.

Reasons to Love Malbec
To seasoned wine snobs, Malbec has two main detractions: it is not considered a “Noble” grape by the Old or New World; and outside of Argentina, it is not a highly respected grape varietal on its own. However, considering that many sommeliers and other wine aficionados are searching for lesser-known gems from far off-locales, there is reason enough to consider Malbec for our immediate attention and admiration. Understandably, many share my respect for Malbec. Many publications and writers have demonstrated this with kind words and high ratings. Malbec is definitely deserving of further exploration and acclaim.

Malbec is in the highly sought-after cadre of wines that have the three attributes many wine lovers seek. They are affordable, have a bit of mystique, and can even be amazing at times.

A Grape with Three Homes
Bordeaux- These days, Malbec is known for being bold, robust, yet approachable. In the 19th century, it was a greater part of Bordeaux wines which were less intense than today’s offerings, Malbec known as being soft and earthy, even to a flaw. It was known for having the body and smoothness of Merlot without the fruit flavors that even the Bordelaise have begun to favor. Needless to say, while Malbec remains one of the six grapes that can legally make up Bordeaux, it has been largely abandoned. Accelerated replanting efforts have triggered a quick, but not total disappearance from Bordeaux. The rise of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon plantings coupled with the difficulty in growing quality Malbec have all but doomed it in the region.

Cahors- One of Malbec’s other renown homes is located in the Southwest of France, where it is usually called Cot, (Sotheby’s Wine Encyclopedia lists over 30 known synonyms) and makes very robust, earthy wines that often bring out flavor descriptors such as smoke, dark chocolate, meat and even creosote. I find them a nice detour from the prevailing wine style defined by especially clean fruit flavors and over-managed texture. Malbec is grown in several other regions of France, (usually not under that name), notably in the Loire and Midi, but has steadily lost ground to Cabernet Franc and other grapes throughout the 30 départements of France that it is known to have covered ground.

Argentina- In recent decades Argentina has become the country synonymous with the Malbec grape. Malbec will never be grown more prominently anywhere as it is within Argentina, and no other grape will ever replace Malbec as Argentina’s national grape. One is rarely mentioned without the other in conversations relating to wine, and it is safe to say that this will always be the case. Many speculate that the soil types, climate, even the irrigation regimen is better suited to Malbec than its original home in France. Ironically, most Argentine wineries are using clonal vine material from Chile rather than France, and claim that when planted in Argentina, the French clones produce over-sized grapes resulting in less intense wines.

Argentina, much like the United States, is a melting pot of mainly European and indigenous cultures. The early Argentine wine industry was a representation of this cultural patchwork. Vines were first cultivated by Spanish missionaries in the 1600’s. With the arrival of European cultures in the 19th and 20th centuries came an influx of new viticultural techniques and grape varieties. German, French, Italian and Spanish immigrants brought some of their favorite grape varietals with them to Argentina. Malbec, Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Torrontes have held the most ground since the introduction of these vitis vinifera grapes. The reasons behind Malbec’s hold on the Argentine wine industry is not entirely obvious, but is most often attributed to its ability to adapt to the Argentine terrior. In the late 1800’s, it was a popular blending grape for Argentine table wines. The vines’ apparent vigor and overall well being in the Argentine vineyards was a sign that given proper vineyard site selection and winemaking techniques, great varietal wines could be made from Malbec. High quality Malbec is somewhat of a new concept to many. In fact, in the 1980’s the Argentine government instituted a massive wine-pulling and replacement program that saw Malbec’s acreage fall to less than a third of its current total. As with many other New World countries, an influx of opportunistic winemaking talent from Europe instigated a revolution in quality of Argentine wine. It has become common to see Argentine Malbec command the highest ratings and critical acclaim from international wine writers.

The appeal of Argentine Malbec lies partly in the value of the wines and partly in the draw of a lesser-known varietal from a developing nation. Mostly the appeal is in the bottle itself. The smooth, supple texture, the complex variety of earthy and fruit flavors, balanced acid levels, and round tannins make Malbec very approachable at a young age. In fact, Argentine winemakers will tell you that Malbec’s tannins polymerize more rapidly than other grapes, thus it obtains the rich, smooth, round tannins that come from bottle aging at an earlier stage than other wines. Argentine wines have remained a great value compared to their European counterparts, meaning we can continue to enjoy wines that drink at a much higher price point and at an earlier age as well.

The Rest of the World- Some varietal Malbec is bottled in New World countries besides Argentina. Argentina’s trans-Andean neighbor Chile is one of note, although their Malbec is known to be somewhat more austere and possess a less appealing tannin profile. In the US, South Africa and Australia, you may come across a random novelty winery-only Malbec bottling, but most of the Malbec in these countries is used as a blending agent in Bordeaux style blends. Some of California’s better Meritages have Malbec to thank for their smoky or inky characteristics and, to a lesser extent, their rounded tannins.

Chris’ Picks
Malbec, like many wines can be segmented not only by geographical origin but by price category as well. Here are a few Old and New World suggestions in a range of prices.

From France:
Clos La Coutale, Cahors $15
Pigmentum, Cahors $10

From Argentina:
Crios de Susanna Balbo, Mendoza, $14
Paul Hobbs, “El Felino” Mendoza, $16
Bodega Noemia, “A Lisa” Rio Negro Valley, $22
Catena Alta, Mendoza, $55
Catena Zapata, Mendoza Adrianna Vineyard, $129

There are several every day Malbecs out there that will wow you when you compare the quality to the price tag. There are also a growing number of high-end wines that may just rock your wine world. Malbec is a very versatile choice, but is best paired with meaty and/or spicy dishes. The more intense single vineyard offerings are best paired with heavier beef dishes with dark sauces. Lighter, fruitier offerings will match well with a greater variety of dishes, given they are of a savory nature. The earthy, gamey nature of Cahors makes it a perfect wine for lamb, venison or other game.

With few exceptions Malbec, especially quality Argentine offerings, should not disappoint. Continued favorable pricing, improvements in vineyard management and overall quality mean that now is the time to fall in love or at least start a healthy relationship with Malbec. It has been a labor of love for me over the last ten years, but as the juice gets better and better and new stars rise every year, Malbec has become a rewarding experience. As always, the key to wine is to enjoy it. Malbec is here to help!  Please click here for our Wine Finder Malbecs in Tucson.

Tags: Malbec, Marriott Starr Pass