The Riesling varietal is, in my opinion, one of the single most food friendly, under appreciated, affordable and collectible wines in the world.  While this piece will focus largely upon some of the producers and their wines that you should keep on your radar screen, a few words about the grape and its wine are warranted.  A more in depth piece about the Riesling grape, its wine and Rieslings in Tucson will be coming this fall on the Wine Education and Wine Finder segment so stay tuned, as they say.

Some wine experts claim, and with good reason, that the Riesling grape variety, identified with its birthplace of Germany, is the finest white in the world, based upon its longevity while retaining the quality of aromas, flavors and structure.  The wines can vary from the high acid steely dry to the honeyed sweet dessert wines, the later characteristically identified with traditional German Riesling.  High tartaric acid and extract levels (sugars, non-volatile acids, minerals, phenolics, glycerol and other trace substances) contribute to the longevity of these wines, the balance allowing them to age with grace for decades (some 30-50 years).  Nonetheless, the wine has suffered, at times, under the confusion of its German name and bottle labels, competing with the oaky and buttery rich California Chardonnays and its lower alcohol content, often around 8%.

While most identify the grape and wine with Germany, Alsace, in northeast France, produces some wonderful dry wines as well as hallmark late harvest or “tardive” wines with sumptuous sweetness.  In the new world, the most interesting region for my buck is the Eden and Clare Valley of Australia.  Riesling produced here tends to be steely dry, refreshingly acidic, and almost “petrolic” in nature with alcohol levels around 12%.  Rounding things out, both Washington state and Canada offer a few producers who offer collectible Riesling at affordable prices.

Since the definition of “collectible” can vary from auction worthy to simply adding to your future stash of wine, I have elected to choose the latter.  The reality is that highest quality Rieslings are very expensive ($500+) and the volume both produced and imported is very limited in quantity (sometimes less than 50 cases).  While a few of the Australian Rieslings listed below are accessible in Tucson, most of the German Rieslings are not so you will have to be diligent in resourcing them out online.  So let’s focus upon Rieslings that are comparably affordable and age worthy.  Remember, this list is just representation of that universe of wine but should give you a nice start.  Notice that the Australian variety is capable of aging for the next 5-10 years while some of the German Rieslings have the potential to go out 15-20 years.   Keep in mind that while these wines will age beautifully if properly stored in a cool, humidified environment, you certainly can enjoy them now.  For me, I would try an occasional bottle now and one every so often to test its aging profile.  Full disclosure here, by the way…I am slowly building up my inventory of some of these affordable Rieslings at opportune moments.

Australia:          Betts & Scholl Eden Valley 2008: light and crisp w/melon and citrus:
                       ~$30; should age well for at least 5 years.

                       Peter Lehmann Eden Valley 2008:   very citrusy and focused
                        w/grapefruit & pineapple; ~$20; Should age well for the next 8-10
                        years.

                       Penfolds Bin 51 Eden Valley 2008: Steely dry w/zip; apple, pear and
                       some vibrant lime; ~$22…should age for 8-10 years.

                       Grosset Polish Hill Clare Valley 2007: beautifully crafted with
                       vibrant lemon-lime character and floral notes…~$50; should age for
                       8-10 years. (2006 is nearly as vibrant and runs ~$36)

                       Leasingham Magnus Clare Valley 2007:  soft citrus of lemon-lime,
                       dry…lovely wine……..and for ~$15….how can you miss….age for
                       next 5 years. (2006 as delightful for ~same pricing)

                       Heath Southern Sisters Reserve Clare Valley 2006:  Waves of apple,
                       peach and citrus on a racy acid structure….should age beautifully;
                       what a wine for ~$20 and age worthy for the next 5+ years

                       Pikes Dry Clare Valley 2006:  Steely, almost petrol, dry with
                       wonderful acidity; tangerine and apricot aromas, floral elements,
                       zippy yet delicate finish; run ~$24 and should age for the 5+ years.

Germany:         Basserman-Jordan Pfalz Deidesheimer Hohenmorgan Auslese 2007:
                       Sumptuously sweet and creamy with waves of orange, peach and soft
                       lemon.  This could use a little more rest in the cellar and then drink 
                       over the next 15-20 years.  Runs ~$55

                       Eren von Beulwitz Kaseler Nies’chen Alte Reuben Spatlese 2007:
                       Beautifully creamy with peach and orange flavors and superbly
                       balanced with bright acidity.  Quite a package. You could drink this at
                       any point over the next 20 years and taste it develop!  Runs ~$25 

                       Joh. Jos. Christoffel Erben Kabinett Mosel Urziger Wurzgarten 2007:
                       Just a beautifully balanced wine with bright and juicy peach, apricot 
                       and a hint of stone; lively and long lasting acidity…this is one of
                       those wines that you can enjoy in its youth now or let settle for the
                       next 10-15 years.  Purchase price: ~$25

                       Emrich-Schonleber Monzinger Fruhlingsplatzchen 2007:
                       If you’re looking for a rich and sophisticated wine that can double as a
                       dessert wine, this is it!  Rich flavors of vanilla custard, honey, apricot 
                       and spice all weave a stunning wine that can be enjoyed now or try
                       over the next 20 years.  Priced ~$48.

                       Reichgraf von Kesslstatt Spatlese Mosel Scharzhofberger 2007:
                       Stunning wine with soft and creamy orange flavors “sprinkled” with a 
                       dash of vanilla spice yet never losing the underlying structure of
                       acidity and liveliness.  Delightful finish priced right at ~$33.  Drink
                       now or cellar over the next 15 years or so.

                       Schloss Lieser Spatlese Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Brauneberger Juffer
                       Sonnenuhr 2007:  Just a stunning wine with vibrant lime, stone, apricot
                       and a lively spice propelled by waves of acidity.  Priced ~$35-40 and
                       to be enjoyed now or over the next 15-20 years!

                       Dr. Loosen Kabinett Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Wehlener Sonnenuhr 2007:
                       A crisp and acid driven wine with wonderful minerality; aromas and 
                       flavors of grapefruit, lime and peach; here’s an example of a wine at a
                       great price of ~$25-30 that you can enjoy now or store away for the 
                       next 10 years.

                       Dr. Loosen Auslese Mosel Erdener Treppchen 2007:
                       Juicy and mineral driven wine with nectarine, lime and peach; nice, 
                       long finish; great balance of acidity.  This wine should age beautifully 
                       for the next 20 odd years.  Current pricing: ~$45.

                       Joh. Jos. Prum Auslese Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Wehlener Sonnenuhr 2005:
                       For the price, this ’05 is a gem with lively aromas of juicy apple and
                       smooth lime along with floral scents.  Superb acidity and minerality
                       that should allow the wine to age with ease over the next 15-20 years.
                       Priced in the $40’s.
               
                       Schafer-Frohlich Spatlese Nahe Bocknauer Felseneck 2007:
                       Vibrant aromas of pineapple, lime and melon; great minerality and 
                       acidity and ?hint of florality.  This wine should age beautifully over 
                       the next 15 years.  Priced ~$35-40

Tags: Riesling