We are launching a series of wine and food pairing strategies that take you away from the more conventional reds and whites and into the land of alternative wines. What do we mean by “alternative” wines? It’s somewhat of a subjective term that denotes those wines that probably don’t find their way to your table as often when compared to their older siblings such as Cabernet Sauvignon or Chardonnay. Not that there is anything wrong with the mainstays. But if you’re searching for an alternative to pair with your cuisine, this series should assist you in your search. To make it easier for you, we will travel to one country at a time, starting with France in this piece and then on to Italy, Spain and others. Try some of the wines with food and share your feedback with fellow readers on the Community Forum. For the sake of simplicity, let exclude the classic French reds, that is Bordeaux, Burgundy, Merlot, and Rhone as well as the dessert wines and head to the Loire Valley appellations of Anjou-Samur and Touraine where some of the finest Cabernet Franc is produced.

This grape varietal not only is a member of the Bordeaux wine blend, but one of the parents of the revered Cabernet Sauvignon grape (the other being the white Sauvignon Blanc). The grape is also grown on the right bank of Bordeaux. Chinon, made from the Cabernet Franc grape, tends to be lighter in color and milder in tannins than Cabernet Sauvignon, resulting in a lighter and smoother mouth feel. The wine, typically, is light to medium bodied, very fruit forward and may have a herbaceous and perfumed character in addition to peppery tobacco, raspberry, cassis and floral elements. So, we are dealing with a medium soft red with lots of fruit, some spice and floral elements. Where do we go with food pairing? Those of you who have read my Wine and Food column entitled Strategies For Wine and Food Pairing, Part I, know that I like to examine the region for wine and food pairings. That being the case, I would look at the cuisine categories that the French enjoy with Cab Francs. In this case, think of lean beef (especially roasted), duck, game, lamb and roasted pork (especially with a fruit sauce). As well, because the wine can have a vegetal component, roasted vegetables or vegetarian dishes make a wonderful match.

Bandol wines are the star of Provence on the Mediterranean in extreme southeast France. They are typically a deep colored, rich and lush wine blend dominated by the Mouvedre grape. As such, they tend to be spicy and plummy with notes of vanilla, cassis, cinnamon, violets and herbs. Rounding out the blend, Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault and Carignan are permitted in the wine blend with very specific limits dictated. While these wines can enjoyed when released, the better ones can be laid down for several years. As Mouvedre, Syrah and to some extent Grenache, offer deep, dark fruit, some spicy and floral elements, I would think of grilled meats, game, and grilled vegetables. By the way, think about the same wine and food pairing strategies with 100% Mouvedre as well.

Beaujolais wine gets a bad rap due to its very lightweight character and structure. Truthfully, I never drink it BUT perhaps I am a little overly judgmental here. More about that in a minute. The wine is produced in southern Burgundy from the Gamay grape and tends to be very fruity-juicy with flavors sometimes described as bubble gum, banana, and pear, this emanating from the process of semicarbonic maceration in the vinification process. Some in the trade refer to the Beaujolais as a “lollipop” drink. The wine is produced in absolutely massive quantities, giving it the appearance of a mass produced jug wine. To be fair, however, the often marginal quality of Beaujolais wine is not due to the grape itself but the process through which the wine is produced. It is a wine that is meant for immediate consumption and for fun so don’t take the wine seriously. What would I pair with Beaujolais……nearly anything….meats, warm or cold, pork, sausage, turkey ( look at the rush for the Nouveau at Thanksgiving), fish (especially accented with bacon), pizza, cheese, etc. Because the wine is so light bodied and fruity, it will refresh a palate any place, anytime, if that’s your aim. There…….I’m done with that!!

Last on the circuit is the Malbec grape and wine varietal, detailed in the wonderful article by Beverage Manager, Chris Horton of Marriott Starr Pass Resort and Spa (Great Wines Taste Great, Regardless of Pedigree – Malbec is No Exception). This grape, while originating in the Cahors area of southwest France, makes its modern day home in the Mendoza region of Argentina. Nonetheless, there are a small number of vintners producing some very good and price affordable Malbecs in Cahors. These bold and muscular wines, with their deep robust fruit of raspberry, plum, blackberry and dark cherry, spiced notes of coffee and chocolate and balanced tannins and minerality are a perfect match for any grilled meat. Next up……………alternative whites from France…….

Tags: Bandol, Beaujolais, Cabernet Franc, Chinon, Chris Horton, Marriott Starr Pass