There is probably no better way to learn about a wine and its “terroir” than speaking with the vintner and cellar manager (often one in the same in small vineyards) and tasting their wines.  For the first time, you will have that unique opportunity, with many of the state’s vintners all brought together under one roof to showcase their bounty.

On November 22^nd, the Arizona Wine Growers Association (www.arizonawine.org), is hosting its first ever Wine Growers Festival (www.azwinefestivalatthefarm.com) at the Farm at South Mountain in Phoenix.  This is a unique opportunity to meet many of the vintners face to face and learn about wine making techniques from the vineyard to the fermentation tanks to the barrel and bottle.  Educational seminars focusing upon wine tasting and wine:cuisine pairing and special walk-through exhibits will be offered and of course hundreds of local wines will be available for tasting.

In addition, special awards will be handed out to a number of wineries that recently competed in a statewide wine competition.  The judging was provided by a blinded panel (of which I was one).  The results of the competition will be announced at the Festival.  What I can tell you, generally, is that there are few wines that will really impress!

For those of you who are unaware, the Arizona wine producing region is some of the oldest in the country, believed to have been first settled by Spanish settlers in the 16^th century.  The variety of grapes brought in from Europe were well suited for the hot climes and produced large yields.

Fast forward to the early part of the twentieth century when prohibition closed the door to wine production in most states, including Arizona.  Interestingly enough, the production of wine grapes was banned in the state several years earlier.  So in essence, the local wine industry went into a state of hibernation and despite the lifting of prohibition, really did not emerge until the early 1970’s when a university professor, Gordon Dutt, rattled the vines.

Dr. Dutt completed his MD and PhD in soil physical chemistry at UC Davis and after working in California for some time, filled a position at the University of Arizona researching water quality issues.  While working on a quality issue relating to table grapes (which was a popular industry at the time), Dutt became intrigued about growing wine grapes in, of all places, Yuma and convinced some “investors” to give it a go.  Thus was born the first known wine grape planting in Arizona. 

This project was rapidly followed by a second in which Dutt devised a system through which rainwater could be captured through soil runoff instead of being absorbed.  Searching for an aesthetically pleasing plant to establish in the barren waterways, Dutt chose grape vines, believing that they were hardy.  Not only was his runoff project a success, but the doctor used his recently acquired knowledge of fruit fermentation to produce wine from the vines.  To everyone’s amazement, the grapes produced wine quality on par with that of some California wines.  Thus was born the realization that wine grapes could yield quality wine in the desert.

In 1975, a rancher from the Sonoita area, encouraged Dr. Dutt to establish an experimental grape vineyard at his ranch at the 5,000 foot elevation.  Just one year later, Dutt was convinced by the then Governor of the state, to develop a project that might benefit the four corner states.  She was convinced that Congress would fund such a project in an effort to stimulate the respective economies.  The project won funding and Dutt created a study resourcing a variety of grapes from each of the four states including grapes grown from terroirs with varying soils, climates, and altitude.  A small wine making facility was established in the basement of Tucson’s Campbell Avenue farm, attended by a (student) wine maker recruited by Dr. Dutt from UC Davis.

Understanding that the grape species chosen, Vitis Vinifera, would thrive in a climate of warm daytime and cool nighttime temperatures, thus ripening the fruit by day while preserving acidity, color and flavors by night, Dr. Dutt became more excited that the southeastern part of Arizona was a prime location.  The higher elevations would moderate the intense Arizona summer heat while allowing significant cooling at night.  In addition, the soils in this region are acidic with iron at the surface and lime beneath.  Dutt believed that he had found the ideal “terroir” in which to grow Arizona grapes.  In confirmation of this belief, it turned out that the wines pressed from the Sonoita area in 1975 were the best of all the experimental lots in the state.  With all this in hand, the Arizona wine industry was about to officially launch.

By the early 1980’s a few wineries became established including Gordon Dutt’s Sonoita Vineyards.  Shortly thereafter, the first Arizona AVA (American Viticultural Area) was approved.  Within the next 5 years, Sonoita Vineyards made some noise, winning wine medals domestically and being served at the inauguration of President George HW Bush in 1989.  The Arizona wine industry seemed to be on its way.

However, during the decade a devastating vine disease surfaced, likely transferred from California.  Pierce Disease, a vine killing bacteria, is carried by a small insect called the Sharpshooter.  There is no cure for the disease but vintners discovered that if they could space out their vines by 20 feet, the Sharpshooter, being a rather limited flier, would be unable to jump from vine to vine.  The solution worked but not before Dutt’s Sonoita Vineyard vines were destroyed.  Lurking, however, was another vintner who was just beginning to shake the local vines with his wines….Kent Callaghan of Callaghan Vineyards.  It’s impressive that Kent’s wines and that of Dos Cabezas were served at White House functions highlighting their quality and potential.

From there, the Arizona wine industry has continued to build on success.  Wineries such as Arizona Stronghold and Keeling-Schaefer have burst on the scene with wines that hold great promise.  In addition, iconic Pinot Noir vintner Dick Erath has resettled in the Green Valley, bringing his nearly 40+ years of vineyard and cellar managing experience to the region.  Dick purchased a very large plot of vineyard land several years ago in the Kansas Settlement area and has just produced his first wines in 2009.  In casual conversations we have had, it is clear that he believes in the potential of the terroir in the higher elevations of southeast Arizona.  After my wine tastings of many of the wineries last week, I have to say that he is on to something.  For further details on Arizona wines, please visit www.arizonavinesandwines.com.

Tags: Arizona Stronghold, Arizona Wine Growers Association, Callaghan Vineyards, Dick Erath, dos cabezas, Keeling-Schaefer