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Collecting Bordeaux At Non Bordeaux Prices

I suspect that Bordeaux wines have not been at the top of the “frequently consumed” list for most consumers, not so surprising in light of some confusion as to exactly what Bordeaux wines are as well as the perception of lofty pricing.  First, just the briefest of general primers.  We’ll explore Bordeaux in more detail at some later date in the Wine Education section.

The Bordeaux wine region is divided into a left and right bank.  The left bank contains regions such as Graves, Medoc and Pessac-Leognan with renown wine names such as Chateau Lafite Rothschild, Chateau Mouton Rothschild and Chateau Pontet Canet while the right owns St Emilion and Pomerol with wine names such as Chateau Haut Brion, Cheval Blanc and Petrus.  Most of these wines run in the hundreds and even thousands of dollars depending upon the vintage.  The estates are classified into first through fifth growths, following the 1855 classification, the one exception being Mouton Rothschild which was elevated to first growth status in 1973.

Bordeaux wines are a blend of five grapes: the two Cabs (Sauvignon and Franc), Merlot, Petite Verdot and Malbec (yes….that very affordable and delicious variety that we all identify with Argentina, even though it seems to have originated in Cahors, France).  I suggest to people that if they like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot ( both of which are a BIG draw in Tucson), they might want to give a Bordeaux a shot.  It offers much of the character of Cabs but with additional aromatic nuances such as cedar, spice box, leather, tobacco, cigar, vanilla and oak.

On the issue of pricing, there’s no doubt that the last decade has witnessed an unparalleled increase in Bordeaux wine pricing, at least partially due to the combination of stellar vintages in 2000 and 2005 with the ’03 nibbling at their heals.  This was not lost on the media, wine critics, nor auction houses which responded to public fervor over the latest Bordeaux collectibles.  Not surprisedly, collectors, both established and newbies, threw endless dollars at these wines, elevating prices to stratospheric levels…..that is until recently. 

The combination of worldwide economic weakness and developing excess Bordeaux inventory has finally infused some pricing reason into the market, not only at auction houses but at local retailers as well, all translating into a buyers market.  As an aside, it will be instructive to observe the marketplace reaction to the ’09 vintage which already is being tauted in some circles as the best in a half a century due to ideal weather conditions.  I’ll keep you updated on the vintage as we get into next year and beyond.  If, and this is a BIG if, the wines turn out to be exceptional, it will likely offer some very attractive pricing for highly collectible Bordeaux for not only the ‘09’s, but for the competitive great vintage years such as 2000 and 2005.

For those looking to sample and perhaps store away some truly affordable Bordeaux, I have some good news for you……….there are a number accessible to whet your palate.  Most Bordeaux wines are produced in large quantities ( 10,000+ cases/vintage).  While Bordeaux at all levels are carried by Tucson retailers, none of the wines listed below seem to be available in locally.  However, as I have said so many times before, you can resource what’s not readily accessible on the internet.  So here’ s a list of a few Bordeaux that I love and are worth storing away in your cellar.

Chateau Puygueraud:

is owned by the famed George Thienpont family which owns the renown Pomerol estate Vieux-Chateau-Certan while a cousin owns the Le Pin.  With such high pedigree, it’s no surprise that Puygueraud is such a respected Bordeaux.  There are two wines from this wonderful estate, located just east of St. Emilion.  The Cotes de Francs version is made mostly with Merlot with a small contribution from Cab Franc and Malbec.  The wine shows superb black currant and licorice notes with the characteristic velvety tannins and lovely minerality.  Best of all is the price of this classy Bordeaux………in the $20’s!!  There is also the reserve red, Cuvee George, which is equally enjoyable and affordable.  The wine, on average, seems to have a ten year aging potential so if you go for the ’05, figure that it will store until around 2015.

Chateau Pipeau:

produced in the St. Emilion region, this wine is simply a delicious wine with aromas of blackberry, smoke, oak and licorice and often vanilla and coffee.  The wines tend to age for about 10-12 years and price in the $30’s.  This wine tastes more like a $75 bottle.


Chateau D’Aiguilhe:

consists of mostly Merlot with a little Cabernet Franc thrown in.  The profile consists of aromatic blackberry and raspberry with hints of vanilla and soft tannins.  The wine’s aging potential has been similar to those above although it appears as if the ’05 has taken another step forward and may age gracefully until 2025.  Pricing should run in the $20’s….another great price for a stellar wine.

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