A Cowboy Dinner Comes in All Forms

No sooner does AJ’s (www.ajsfinefoods.com) wrap up their Seafood Extravaganza promotion than they roll out one of my favorites……………ALL steaks at one half the normal price.  Reflecting the quality that they are, they go to bat for the lover of these outstanding cuts of beef, whether it be Prime or Choice.  The promotion is on through Sunday, March 14th.

The wonderful thing about steaks is that they make themselves amenable to such a varied preparation.  You can go with a simple salt and pepper mixture to accents such as garlic, lime, cilantro and if you want a bit more earthy character, thyme and red wine.  Before I offer up a few local recipes, this is a good time to discuss the options in choosing and preparing your steak.

Keep in mind that the USDA grades beef on marbling or intramuscular fat.  Prime is the highest grade, comprising less than 5% of the USDA produced beef.  It’s no wonder that most top steak houses use this grade of beef.  Next down is choice.  If you see Certified Angus on the label, it’s either prime or a high grade of choice.

The most common source of beef is the Angus cattle but a small proportion is from the famous Japanese Wagyu cattle (Kobe beef).  This cut has the most marbling of any cut of beef and yields a steak with unmatchable buttery and flavorful taste.  It nearly “melts” in your mouth.  While the cost is highest, it’s well worth it for the experience.  The cattle can be grain or grass fed or sometimes both.  The grassy style tends to be leaner with less marbling and allegedly, a bit more healthy.

You’ll often see the terminology “dry aged” and less so “wet aged.”  Dry aging is a process resulting in deliberate moisture loss and increased concentration of flavor of the cut.  It involves maintaining the surrounding temperature near the freezing point and at 55% relative humidity for at least three weeks.  Enzymes break down the muscle fibers over time, naturally tenderizing the beef.  Wet aged beef is maintained in sealed plastic bags.  Because it doesn’t go through the dry aged process, the cut is usually not quite as flavorful nor as tender.  Because of the involved process, dry aging tends to be more expensive but certainly worth the expense if you want a special treat.

Depending upon the origin of the cut of beef, the flavor and tenderness will vary.  The classic Filet Mignon is from the short loin of the cattle producing the most tender, yet least flavorful cut.  It’s for this reason that seasoning is so important in preparing the Filet as there is little if any fat to add a flavor component.  A New York strip is also from the short loin with more fat and flavor, especially if on the bone.  The Porterhouse is a steak lovers dream: part New York strip and part tenderloin.  The traditional ribeye, from the center of the rib roast, is called a Cowboy steak when cut with the bone in.  This steak is the least tender of all the above cuts but prolonged tenderinzing will overcome this.

The steak can be grilled, oven roasted or broiled (and pan fried withs some thinner cuts).  My far and away favorite is grilling.  If this is your approach, preheat the grill and be patient….. get it HOT!  Simply sear both sides of the cut for a couple of minutes on both sides and then move the steak to a cooler part of the grill and cook for another 6-10 minutes depending upon how well done you prefer your steak.  Keep in mind that the steak will continue to cook for a short time after its removed.  Try not to cut into the steak while its on the grill as this will remove some the flavorful natural juices.

AJ’s Steak Recipes with wines to pair courtesy of Cellar Manager, Kevin Anderson

Coffee & Chocolate Crusted Tenderloin with Juniper Berry Merlot Sauce

Items Needed:
• 1 beef tenderloin trimmed and denuded
• 3 Tbsp. vegetable oil
• ½ cup finely ground coffee beans
• ¼ cup Hershey’s Cocoa
• 1 Tbsp. paprika
• 1 Tbsp. ground cloves
• ½ Tbsp. brown sugar
• ½ Tbsp. ground cumin
• 1 Tbsp. chili powder
• 1 Tbsp. garlic powder
• 2 Tbsp. kosher salt
• 1 Tbsp. cracked black pepper

Items Needed for the Sauce:
• 2 Tbsp. shallots, chopped
• 2 Tbsp. olive oil
• ½ cup Merlot wine
• ½ cup beef broth
• Drippings from the roast
• 1 Tbsp. of the rub (from other side)
• 4 Juniper berries (available in the dry spice aisle)
• 1 Tbsp. heavy cream

Directions:

In a small bowl, combine the dry ingredients to make a rub. Save 1 Tbsp. of this rub to flavor the sauce.  Coat the tenderloin with oil, then evenly and generously cover it with the rub.  Marinade it for a few hours or overnight.  Preheat oven to 450°F.

Place the tenderloin on a rack, in a roasting pan and roast for 10 minutes.  Reduce temperature to 225°F and continue roasting until desired doneness. With thermometer inserted in the thickest part, should read: 120°F for rare, 130°F for medium, 140° for well done).  Let rest for 15 minutes. Slice and serve with sauce.

Directions for the Sauce:

In skillet, sauté the shallots in olive oil.  Over high heat, deglaze the pan with wine.  Reduce the heat; add the beef broth and the drippings from the roast.  Add 1 Tbsp. of rub, the Juniper berries, reduce the sauce to desired consistency and check the seasoning.  Strain the sauce, if desired, and finish it off with the cream.  Serves 6 – 8

Grilled Spicy New York Strip Steak With Chocolate Merlot Sauce

Items Needed for the Sauce:
• 1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 medium onion, thinly sliced
• 2 tsp. garlic, minced
• 1 jalape&ntild;o pepper, minced
• 1 ½ cups Merlot
• 1 Tbsp. dry onion soup mix (gluten-free)
• 3 oz bittersweet chocolate, coarsely chopped

Items Needed for the Steak:
• 4 New York strip steaks (1 inch thick)
• ¼ cup taco seasoning mix

Directions:

In a medium saucepan, heat oil over medium-high heat.  Add onion, garlic and jalapeno, sauté until soft, about 5 minutes.  Add Merlot to pan, (away from flame). Reduce wine by half over high heat.  Reduce heat to low and stir in soup mix and chocolate. Stir until smooth.  Strain chocolate sauce if you desire a smooth consistency.  Keep warm on very low heat until ready to serve.

Preheat grill or broiler to high heat. Season steaks with taco seasoning, grill or broil to desired doneness.  Serve steaks with chocolate Merlot sauce.

Serves 4

Kevin suggests that following entree choices, sides and wine pairings:

Kobe New York Strip *($37.99/18.99 lb.)
“Cowboy Cut” Rib eye Steaks *($12.99/6.49 lb.) grill to sear finish in broiler
USDA Prime Tenderloin *($24.99/12.49 lb.)
 
Chili Poppers w/ bacon $6.99 lb.
Stuffed Portabella Mushrooms w/ Italian Sausage $6.99 lb.
Twice Baked Potatoes $3.99 lb.
Asparagus $2.99 lb.
 
Wines to Pair:

Biserno Insoglio del Cinghale 2007 Toscana *($37.99/19.99 750 ml)
Charles Creek “Punta Mita” Merlot 2005 $20.99 750 ml
Lyeth “Meritage Red” $17.99 750 ml 

Janos, (www.janos.com) Tucson’s own award winning chef, offers these recipes:

Seared Beef Tenderloin with Wild Mushrooms

This is a very simple dish with great flavors. It’s easy and quick to make at home.

Ingredients

Yield: 2 Main Courses

2 – 7 oz portions beef tenderloin, trimmed
2 oz – Canola or grapeseed oil
3 oz – raw butter
2 – stems of fresh thyme
6 oz – foraged or domesticated exotic mushroom
1 tsp – freshly chopped chives
1 tsp – freshly chopped garlic
1 TBSP – freshly chopped shallots
3 oz – Red wine
2 TBSP – brandy
Salt and freshly ground pepper

Instructions

1. Heat oil in heavy sauté pan.
2. Salt and pepper the meat, sear until well browned on 1 side
3. Turn the meat, add butter and thyme.
4. Sear the other side constantly basting the meat and finish in oven to desired temperature.
5. Deglaze the pan with red wine, scraping up the fond.
6. Add the mushrooms and more oil as needed.
7. After 2 or three minutes add the shallots and garlic and stir well.
8. Flame with the Brandy and burn off the alcohol.
9. Sprinkle in the chives and serve over the tenderloin.

Coffee & Cocoa Grilled New York Strip Loin

Ingredients

For the New York Strip Loin:

Yield: 4 portions
2 Fully trimmed dry aged New York Strip
For the Dry Rub:
4 oz Ground Chiapas Coffee
2 oz brown sugar
2 oz Santa Cruz Chile Powder

For the Chorizo Scarlet Runner Beans:

Yield: 1 Quart
1/2 yellow onions, diced
2 oz diced smoked poblano chiles
1 habanero chiles, finely diced
1 TBSP chopped garlic
2 oz tomato catsup
1/2# cooked chorizo
1 Quarts cooked, rinsed and drained Scarlet Runner Beans beans
canola oil to saute in
salt and pepper
water

For the Smoked Corn Coulis:

Yield: 2 Quarts
6 ears of sweet yellow corn
1 Cup chopped white onions
1 Cup chopped celery
1 Cup chopped carrots
1 1/2 Quart chicken stock
1 1/2 Quart water
salt and black pepper to taste

For the Red Wine Chipotle Essence:

Yield: 2 Cups
1 1/2 carrots, diced
1 1/2 celery stalks, diced
1/2 yellow onion, diced
1/2 tsp fennel seed
1/2 tsp black pepper corns
1 chipotle
2 quarts red wine
1/2 bottle port
1 tsp olive oil
1 TBSP cornstarch slurry
For the Mushrooms and Cholla Buds:
Yield: 4 Servings
1/2# Autumn mushrooms, coarsely chopped
1/4# well picked over cholla buds, reconstituted in warm water to cover
1 TBSP chopped garlic
1 TBSP chopped shallot
salt and pepper to taste
2 TBSP brandy
1 tsp minced herbs
olive oil to coat pan

Instructions

For the New York Strip Loin:
1. Thoroughly coat the New York Strip in the dry rub.
2. Grill to medium rare and carve 24 slices (6 per portion.)

For the Dry Rub:
1. Thoroughly combine all ingredients and hold in airtight container.

For the Chorizo Scarlet Runner Beans
1. Saute the onions and chilies until soft.
2. Add the catsup, garlic, chorizo and black beans and cook together for a moment or two on medium heat.
3. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
4. Add in about 1 Cup water and simmer for 10 minutes to marry the flavors.

For the Smoked Corn Coulis
1. Remove the corn from their husk and smoke thoroughly over mesquite.
2. Remove the corn from the cobs, chop the cobs into smaller pieces and reserve.
3. Sweat the onions, carrots and celery, add the corn kernels and cobs and simmer in the chicken stock and water about two hours.
4. Remove the corn cobs and puree and strain the corn broth.
5. Return the broth to a low simmer and reduce until thick enough to well coat the back of a spoon.

For the Red Wine Chipotle Essence:
1. In the olive oil caramelize the carrots, celery and onion.
2. Add the fennel seed, black peppercorns, chipotle, red wine and port and reduce by half.
3. Strain and reduce the remaining liquid to 1 quart.
4. Cook with cornstarch slurry to slightly thicken.
For the Mushrooms and Cholla Buds:
1. Saute mushrooms and cholla buds with garlic, shallot, salt and pepper.
2. Flame with brandy.
3. Toss in herbs and combine well.



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2 Comments - Submit Your Comment to “A Cowboy Dinner Comes in All Forms”

  1. Art Chappell says:

    I’m doing a Cowboy Steak dinner, grilled rib-eyes with coffee and brown sugar rub. I’m looking for a great wine to pair with it. Any suggestions. Thanks ART

  2. Jim says:

    The classics would be Bordeaux or Cabernet Sauvignon. But if you’re game to try something different, think about a Syrah based wine (either domestic or international such as an Australian Shiraz) or even a Pinot Noir. A big, fruity Zin could work nicely and I know those who go for a Chianti……………lots of choices……………..that’s the fun of it………….see what your palate likes and good luck….

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