As a professional, my beliefs are predicated upon science.  Most of my prior careers were based upon math, physics and medicine……You can’t get much more scientific than that!  I don’t exclude non-scientific hypothesis and concepts.  I just don’t give them nearly as much weight.

Being so heavily invested in science, I thought that it would be instructive to dig into the concept of Organic, Biodynamic and Sustainable Viticulture, practices that evoke strong emotions on both the science and non-science side.
 
Organic Viticulture:

Organic viticulture is the technique of vine and grape growth that shuns conventional man-made compounds such as fertilizers, fungicides and pesticides including genetically modified compounds.  The organic farmer places primary emphasis on soil health and preventative rather than reactive measures.  Preventative measures are meant not to enter either the vine sap or the grape pulp.  Organic farming, it is hoped, will result in less pollutant runoff of contaminants from the vines and soils.  Fertilizer is comprised of compost, which farmers believe nourishes the soil which, in turn, will feed the vine.  Some farmers claim that the results are vine shoots that are require much less trimming, producing more reliable yields.  Weed management, when necessary, can be approached through mowing, ruminants (such as sheep) or burning.  Another approach is to plant cover crops between the rows of vines.
 
Organic products in the United States are regulated by the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) in accordance with the Organic Food and Production Act (OFPA) passed in 1990 (7 C.F.R. pt. 205).   Products labeled as “organic” must be certified according to standards for ingredients and production set by the National Organic Standards Board (NOSB) and administered by the National Organic Program (NOP) within the USDA. Organic wines are to be produced without the use of most conventional pesticides, fertilizers made with synthetic ingredients or sewage sludge, bioengineering or ionizing radiation.
 
The “organic” process can be applied to grapes, winemaking or both.  For the term to be applied to winemaking, no artificial man-made products may be added to the juice, including sulfites which suppress spoilage.  The result is that, in the United States, less than 1% of all wine is declared as organic wine, even if its grapes were farmed in an organic manner.

Sustainable agriculture:

as defined by the U.S. Congress, is an integrated system of plant and animal production practices having site-specific applications that will, over the long term:
• Satisfy human food and fiber needs
• Enhance environmental quality and the natural resource base upon which
   the agricultural economy depends
• Make the most efficient use of non-renewable resources and on-farm resources
• Integrate, where appropriate, natural biological cycles and controls
• Sustain the economic viability of farm operations
• Enhance the quality of life for farmers and society as a whole

To put it simply: Sustainable viticulture is an economically viable, socially supportive and ecologically sound process of growing grapes.
If this definition sounds vague, you’re correct………it is.  The term is often applied liberally and almost always falls short of the ideal that grape production is truly self sustaining.  There is no legal definition of Sustainable practices.

Biodynamic Viticulture:

The concept of biodynamic agriculture was launched by Rudolf Steiner in the early part of the 20th century.  Steiner is best described as a German philosopher and “mystic.”   This extension of the organic farming concept views the vineyard as part of a larger holistic ecosystem.  While you can view the plants and the soil as two of the primary components, everything and anything else that could possibly impact them fits into the equation.  This includes any form of naturally occurring life within or impacting the soil and vines from insects to foraging animals.  As well, water, sun, astrological beliefs as to the influence of the moon, sun and planets on the earth and any additional holistic practices that might impact the health of the vines and grapes are all integrated into biodynamic farming.  This also includes practices that some would consider to be “primitive” in nature such as burying cow’s horns filled with manure or other preparations.  Proponents of this practice believe that these ingredients and practices nourish the soil and vines.

As you might imagine, there are a fair share of skeptics who say that there is no conclusive scientific study pointing to the benefits of biodynamic versus organic farming.  In fact, a study conducted a few years back at Washington State University comparing soils treated biodynamically versus organically found no difference in the amount of insect life and other organisms.  Additionally, and read this carefully,…………..there is no clear cut relationship between biodynamic/ organic grapes and wines and the quality of the wine.  There are outstanding non-organic wines made in the traditional way and outstanding wines derived from biodynamic or organic grapes with the winemaking itself organic or biodynamic.  Some of the vintners adhering to the biodynamic process are well known: Leflaive, Zind-Humbrecht, Huet, Chapoutier, Beaux Freres and Cayuse.

So what is the impetus then for biodynamic or even organic farming?  For one thing, it makes us feel good to know that we are working hard to protect the soils and its “offspring.”  There may not be scientific proof that all the efforts are rewarded, but the reward is in the effort itself.  Second, organic/biodynamic farming demands more attention to the details of wine production from the soils to the vines to the grapes and the wines than non-organic.  And anything that more intimately connects the vineyard manager with his or her vineyard and winemaker with his or her wines, has to be good.

Tags: Beaux Freres, Biodynamic farming, Cayuse, Chapoutier, Huet, Leflaive, Organic Farming, Sustainable farming, Zind-Humbrecht