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Archive for August, 2010

When in Beaune, Have Dinner in Caves

Monday, August 2nd, 2010

On My MindDuring our recent visit to France, we made a point of spending a couple of days in Beaune, located at the northern edge of the Cote de Beaune appellation.  The city has quite a history dating back to the time when Julius Caesar founded the town as a Roman camp and later becoming the seat of the dukes of Burgundy until the 13th century.  By the 18th century, Beaune was already on its way to becoming the center of the Burgundy wine industry, establishing houses such as Champy and Bouchard.  Today, you can add names such as Jadot, Latour and Bouchard Pere & Fils.

The city, encircled by a single street, is packed with history (Hotel Dieu, founded by Nocolas Rolin in 1443 and the hospices de Beaune) and quaint boutiques, bistros and restaurants.  The cobblestone streets are intimate, allowing for only one lane of traffic, as browsers casually drift in and out of the stores.  If you’re visiting over a Saturday, be prepared for the very energetic and festive farmers market that literally takes over the center of town from 7:30 in the morning until shortly after noon.  Freshly cultivated culinary goods take front and center stage.  The aromas of fresh vegetables and fruit intermingle with stands of freshly cut provincial flowers.  A few booths down, you begin to pick up the mouth watering scent of freshly roasting chickens on spits.  If you’re in the mood for the raw version or freshly prepared sausage, there are endless choices.  If it’s samples you’re looking for, the vendors will be more than pleased to offer dips of fresh olives, tomatoes, spices and oils.  Then, of course, there are the freshly dried Provencial spices and mustards, both of which we took advantage of by adding to the local economy.  Away from the culinary theme, you’ll find the usual market stables such as outer, underwear, shoes, pocketbooks and the like.  To add “mood’ to the event, a few native Ecuadoran flutists instilled the air with waves of rich musical notes, the melody creating its own sea of tranquility.

Our first evening, we scanned out the town and then settled at a local bistro called Bistro Bourgogne owned by Jean-Jacques Hegner since 1985.  Keep an eye out for our video with him.  Sitting outdoors, sipping on some lovely white Burgundy as the sun was setting at a cool 9:50PM,  a chance meeting with a young lady who resides in Beaune and works with the US importer Kermit Lynch, convinced us to try a local restaurant called Caves Madeleine.  She said that the food was great, the wine list extensive and the pricing fair.  I always prefer to discover restaurants that locals admire figuring that they know the difference between “travel agency” sells and real Mccoy. 

Traveling Through Sacred Terroir: Vosne Romanee, Nuits St. George and Premeaux-Prissey

Monday, August 2nd, 2010

When collectors think Burgundy, they start and end with the village of Vosne-Romanee.  While its six separate grand crus vineyards may look like so many others along the strip, the weathered stone cross standing guard over the opening in the wall of the vineyard Domaine de la Romanee-Conti (DRC) says it all: “ Many people come to visit this site and we understand.  We ask you nevertheless to remain on the road and request that under no condition you enter the vineyard.”  Now there’s a direct statement of privacy!

DRC’s  roots harken back to the 10th century, Benedictine monks settling in the area with grants of vineyards.  Since that time, the land area that we now know as DRC has changed hands many times over, today jointly owned by Aubert de Villaine and member of the Leroy family.  While DRC is associated with excellence today, it has not always been smooth sailing, the vineyards challenged by WWII, economic turmoil and phylloxera.  At one point, in the 1940’s, the Domaine was at risk of being split up, if not for the remarkable dedication of the two families that co-own it, de Villain and Leroy.  DRC owns 62 acres of vineyards in Vosne-Romanee and near by Flagey-Echezeaux.  Both of the grand crus, La Tache and La Romanee Conti, are owned wholly by DRC while the Richebourg, Romanee St.-Vivant, Grands Echezeaux and Echezeaux grand crus have multiple owners in addition to DRC.  Despite the reputation of Burgundy as a top wine region, only 1% of all the wine produced is grand cru.  What makes DRC so special is its dedication to the pure expression of terroir and to the details that allow that expression.  Stability in the vineyard and wine making team is also a vital key to excellence.  The vineyards and wine making is conducted biodynamically, the Domaine wishing the purest expression of the terroir with as little interference as possible.  The vines utilized for the grapes must be at least 45 years old.  Harvesting involves picking whole clusters, checking the grapes meticulously for less than ripened or damaged grapes.  The clusters are then placed into vats with partial destemming depending upon the vintage.  After a brief prefermentation maceration, up to five days, during which the must is pumped over, indigenous yeasts are allowed to begin the fermentation process.  The wine is punched down once or twice a day, depending upon the vintage.  Rather than an extraction of flavor and color, DRC prefers to call it an infusion, a very gentle process that allows the grapes to express their best without forcing the process.  Once in barrel, the fine lees protect the grapes against excess oxidation and keep the juice fresh.  All wines are aged in 100% new oak and undergo malolactic fermention.  The wine spends 18 months in barrel with one racking.  There is no fining and only a light filtration when necessary.  Bottling is initiated according to the lunar phases and by gravity only.  While DRC vinification is traditional, the Vosne-Romanee sees its variations on the theme from one vintner to the next.

Mid-season update from Callaghan Vineyards.

Monday, August 2nd, 2010

Kent Callaghan talks about the 2010 monsoon season, the progress of his vines and his 2009 vintage.

Two Reds for One Dish On the Hit Parade

Sunday, August 8th, 2010

My wife slow cooked cubes of sirloin beef in preparation for a Beef Stroganoff dinner, allowing the meat to cook in the sauces for six hours.  After boiling up some egg noodles, I went searching for a wine factoring in the sour cream base of the creamy sauce.  As it turns out, I chose one wine for the first night and an alternative for the reheated portion several nights later.  While both worked, you’ll see that I had a favorite.

Joseph Drouhin Chablis Saint-Veran, 2008:

A Reason to Sing the La-La’s

Sunday, August 8th, 2010

If you’re looking to store away the Cote Rotie cream of the crop, look no further than the deep, intense and rich La-La’s from the renown E Guigal:  La Mouline, La Landonne and La Turque. 

Cote Rotie is the northern most appellation in Northern Rhone, the vineyards carved into the steep valley walls of the Rhone River.  Nourished by ideal soils with names such as Cote Brune and Cote Blonde, one cannot utter the La-La names without the name E.Guigal.

Searching For A Hearty Dish in the Middle of Summer

Wednesday, August 11th, 2010

Beef Stroganoff

Wednesday, August 11th, 2010

From Williams Sonoma Essentials of Slow Cooking

Ingredients

Pairing Goat Cheese and Wine

Wednesday, August 11th, 2010

Cheese and wine are more than natural cousins when it comes to pairing.  Oh yes, there are aromas, flavors and textures to consider, but it says something that both depend upon terroir and age to express their aromatic and flavor profile.

Goat milk (and cheese) tends to be the lowest in fat at 3.5%, followed by cow at 3.7% and sheep at 7.4%. A young goat’s cheese, by virtue of not losing substantial moisture from a long aging process, will have around 6g of fat per ounce vs. 10g for an aged goat cheese where the fat becomes more concentrated.  For comparison sake, prime beef tenderloin contains about 6.5g of fat per ounce whereas king salmon has about 3g.

Cote de Beaune

Thursday, August 12th, 2010

Making the trek from the Cote de Nuits to Cote de Beaune should not be without a stop in the city of Beaune.  Founded by Julius Caesar as a Roman camp, the city became the seat of the dukes of Burgundy until the 13th century and still remains the center of the Burgundian wine industry.  A single road winds around the city, acting as its perimeter, enclosing a myriad of delightful restaurants, bistros and wine establishments as well as boutique shops.   Try to make your stay over a Saturday as that’s market day from around 7:30AM to 12:30, a festive and energetic display of nearly everything French in food from sausages to fresh vegetables and fruits, meats, roasting chickens, mustards, and flowers.  There are also the classic vendors selling hardware and household good, clothes, jewelry, and more.  During this time, the city closes off much of the center to traffic and by the time you’re finished, you need to pack it down at one of local cafes or bistros for some lunch and drink.

Cote de Beaune extends about 18 miles south of Beaune to Cheilly-les-Maranges, offering a more gentle and expansive view than the Cote de Nuits.  Both red and white wines are produced in this region.  The reds display elegance, softness and finesse yet still possessing an underlying structure but it’s the white Burgundies for which this region is renown,  names such as Batard Montrachet, Corton Charlemagne,  Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet commanding recognition (and pricing).

French Take on 2009 Bordeaux Futures Pricing

Friday, August 13th, 2010

We all know how insane the pricing of the 2009  en primeur Bordeaux has become, with first growths commanding over $1000 per bottle to be delivered sometime late in 2011 or 2012.  As we were traveling through France from Paris to Burgundy, Rhone and points south, I used the opportunity to ask both consumers and wine industry professionals alike of their opinion about the pricing.  After all, it is possible that we here in the United States, view this differently than wine lovers in France.  The responses were interesting.

On the whole, wine consumers seemed to be indifferent to the issue.  Most people sip on a glass of affordable everyday local wine either at home or at a local bistro.  There are so many very affordable “village” wines for daily drinking that never make it out of the country (no exporter), that it really makes no difference what Bordeaux does.  As well, remember that Bordeaux is on the southwest side of France, quite some distance from Paris, Burgundy and Rhone so consumers there are pretty divorced from the hype.

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