As we were traveling throughout Burgundy and Rhone wine country recently, I was struck by how much tradition plays a role in their life, not surprising in that so many of the vineyards have been passed down for multiple generations.  For example, Chateau Beaurenard in the Chateauneuf du Pape appellation, now run by the Coulon brothers Daniel and Frederick, has been in the family for seven generations dating back to the late 1600’s.  E Guigal still has artifacts from two centuries ago in their vineyards, recalling Roman times, and a wine cave hanging sculpture that dates back well over a thousand years.  All of this got me to thinking about the role of tradition and what some might consider to be its nemesis, innovation.

Now I have to admit, I have a soft sentimental spot for tradition.  When younger and asked what I would wish for if I had a time machine, I would response that I wanted to meet the great settlers, leaders and innovators who set the foundation of what we have today.
 
On a fundamental basis, tradition allows us to reconnect to our past, to those people, processes and events without which we probably wouldn’t be what we are today.  If not for the colonists, willing to chance a break from England, I suspect that our destiny might have altered.  Personally, I use the Thanksgiving holiday and Independence Day to reconnect me to those who sacrificed themselves so that I can live the way I do today.  I’m sure that many of you use Veterans Day in the same manner.  It’s a subtle reminder of what we have today, the results of hard work, dedication to principles and risk taking.
 
Tradition also lends us a sense of security, something to adhere to when doubts tremor our foundation.  How many times have you heard your parents say, “this is how we’ve always done it.”  If it got them to where they are today and safely, why not continue?  As my father used to say, “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.”

Tradition can also offer up some valuable lessons, not only about the past, but about where we might venture by acting as a spring board for change.  While traditions have worked so well and been practiced for generations, perhaps there is room for improvement through innovation…………………….…….Ah yes innovation.

Just as our history has been marked by periods of stability and reliable growth, so too has it seen its times of explosive change.   Witness the industrial revolution or more recently, the technology and medical revolution of the last half century.  Throughout history, we have experimented with change, sometimes with success and other times not, sometimes for the better and other times not.  So many times, the yearning for change has been met head on with tradition, often one generation comfortable with security while the next is eager to push the limits and explore.  Both have merits.  Both have drawbacks.  My question is whether it’s an either/or or can tradition and innovation co-exist?

True traditionalists will say that their practices will never change.  Some vintners are adamant that they will never abandon cork closures.  They’ve utilized them for centuries with very good results and offered an industry niche and employment for cork producers.  As the wine is from the earth, so should be the closure………………………….or should it be?

I won’t sermonize the merits or faults in screw cap versus traditional cork closures.  I’ve written about that before.  Suffice it to say that studies do confirm that wines closed with corks do suffer the risk of oxidation, TCA and TBA.  Studies seem to indicate that 5-10% of all wines closed with cork suffer some aromatic and taste imperfections, something not revealed with screw caps.  Some vintners claim that the minor imperfections actually add to the wine’s profile.  So if they and their consumer base accept the imperfections, why should the tradition change?  Life is not perfect.

My posture is that both traditionalists and innovators can exist side by side if they recognize and appreciate their differences.   While any given vintner will certainly give his or her all for perfection in the quality of the grapes and the juices that finds their way into the bottle, some may simply accept the imperfections of bottle aging, unless, that is, we’re dealing with nose numbing TCA.  Others may wish for the clearest expression of the wine from the moment it’s bottled to the day it’s released.  If screw caps aid in that endeavor, well then why not? 

A long time ago, as I was winding my way through a surgical internship, I heard a wizardly, white haired coiffed surgeon warn that the enemy of good was better.  I understood what he was saying.  Sometimes what you have is the best it can be and tinkering with it has its risks.  On the other hand, I’ve come to appreciate that sometimes, innovation really can improve the end product.  

Tradition…………….innovation………….do you think that they can co-exist?

Tags: tradition