Condrieu:

Without competition, this appellation, just south of the Cote Rotie, is the best in the Rhone Valley and probably the world.  Encompassing nearly 500 acres, the region extends from the town of Condrieu along the Rhone west bank to Limony.  Interestingly enough, within this appellation is the micro-appellation of Chateau Grillet.  Viticulture in this region has existed since the Roman times.  The climate here is very continental with warm to hot summers and cold, wet winters.  The vines, planted on granite soils which retain the heat of the day and radiate out at night, face south to take advantage of the prolonged late spring and summer sunlight.  Some select areas have chalk, flint and mica as part of the soil which adds a clean minerality to the wines.

The only AOC wine permitted in this region is white wine made from the Viognier grape.  The clone of Viognier grown in this region produces low yields of small berries contributing to the scarcity of the wine and thus higher prices.  Viognier is blessed with a very distinct aromatic profile characterized by peaches, dried white fruit such as star fruit, anise and flowers.  Because the grape’s juices are low in acidity, the producer must pay particular attention to the vinification process so that the wine doesn’t take on a flabby profile.  Depending upon the winemaker, malolactic fermentation may be utilized, again though, with attention paid to the low acidity of the wine and storage in oak barrels requires a gentle hand as too much oak can overwhelm the delicate profile of the wine.  These are wines that are to be enjoyed, most often, within a few years of release, in order to take advantage of their delicate freshness.
 
Pairing with food is really a joy with these wines, their aromatic profile offering nuances not present in other whites.  They perfectly counterbalance the spiciness of Asian or Thai dishes, the freshness and florality of the wine offering a refreshing cleansing of the palate.  On the other extreme, Viognier is an outstanding pair with cream or butter sauced chicken and fish dishes.  This is especially impressive if the Viognier takes on a peaches and cream flavor.  Rich shellfish such as lobster is a natural as is roasted pork.  Vintners to look for are: Cuilleron, Villard, Vernay, Guigal, Chapoutier and Tardieu-Laurent.  These wines tend to priced between $50 and $100.

Crozes-Hermitage, Hermitage:

About fifteen miles south of Condrieu lies one the stars of Northern Rhone: Hermitage (often hyphenated with Tain, the wine capital of the region).   The hills of Hermitage are impressive as you drive through the small town (as you’ll see in our upcoming video), lined with terraces of vineyards and a large sign reading Chapoutier, signaling his pronounced presence.  The soils tend toward granite with ancient delta deposits plastered tightly with clay, the clay a remnant of a marine arm of the Mediterranean.  Capping the hills are deposits of loess containing rock flour ground up in the Alps by valley glaciers and deposited in the Rhone Valley by streams.  These delta soils favor the Syrah grape which produces the majority of the Hermitage wines.  The Les Bessards single plot vineyard, situated entirely upon granite, is one of the most recognized terroirs on the hill, yielding a deep, dark and grippy Delas Syrah.

Surrounding the hills of Hermitage is the largest appellation of Northern Rhone, the Crozes Hermitage, composed of three geologic terrains, each yielding a differing style of wine.  The best and most structured wines come from vines overlying the narrow exposure of granite.  Other soils contain glacial alluvium, pebbles and stones deposited in the area by glaciers.  To the east of Hermitage, the soils display a mixture of clay, sand and loess that are ideally suited to the profile of the white grapes of Hermitage, Marsanne and Roussanne.  AOC laws allow up to 15% of these white grapes to be added to the Syrah, adding complexity to the wine.  Finally, the terrain to the southeast is a series of Quaternary terraces that support Cotes du Rhone appellation reds and whites.

In general, wines from Crozes-Hermitage are less powerful and more affordable than their Hermitage cousins.   Red Crozes-Hermitage imparts a garrigue and earthy character with deep black fruits of blackberry, currant, and plum, fine minerality and all stitched together on a frame of tar, iron and loam.  Some of the wines may also have nuances of grilled herbs and game, as well, making these wines a perfect match for a milder beef, lamb, game or pork dish.  I have some Jean-Louis Chave Selection Crozes-Hermitage Silene, 2006 and it is a great value for such a muscular wine.  It should last for another five or six years and for $30, this is a no brainer collectible!  Other names to look for are Chapoutier, Tardieu-Laurent, and Graillot.

If the red is a Hermitage, expect more of an intense and muscular wine with deep currant, fig, licorice, expresso and graphite notes.  Hearty and robust dishes with lots of flavor and texture such as braised, grilled, roasted or stewed beef, game, lamb or venison make superb matches.  As well, hard or blue cheese can work.  Mushrooms work beautifully into this scheme.  Name to recognize are Chave, Delas and Chapoutier.  The best of these run ~$100+ but are worth the experience.

Don’t forget that there is an outstanding white wine from both regions, derived from the Marsanne and Roussanne grapes.  These are grapes that impart a very distinct aroma of peach, fennel, herbal spiced tea, flowers and acacia honey and work magic with white meats, fish and cheese.  The white Hermitage (i.e. Chapoutier Ermitage White L’Ermite) can be one super intense wine with added nuances of blanched almonds, white tea, jasmine, mango and papaya and has the potential to age for 10-15 years.   The Hermitage can run over $200 but the Crozes-Hermitage can be bought for less than $50.  Names to look for are Chave, Delas and Chapoutier.

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Tags: Condrieu, Crozes-Hermitage, Hermitage