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Thursday, March 4th, 2010
Since the completion of the local harvest last year, I’ve been hearing whispers that the 2009 vintage has the potential to be one of best ever. Mother nature was fully cooperative, offering up very warm day time temperatures, even at the vineyard elevation (often 4500-5000 feet) but sufficiently cooled nights. Rainfall was well below the norm, essentially eliminating moisture related disease, and allowing the vintners to tailor irrigation to their specifications. The only fly in the ointment was a late season hail storm or two in the Sonoita region which may have reduced a crop a little. So with the grapes in the barrels and tanks and a few whites actually ready for bottling, I was curious to discover how the wines are developing. For some answers, I spoke with Kent Callaghan (www.callaghanvineyards.com) and Sam Pillsbury (www.pillsburywine.com) about the wine’s progress and had the opportunity to taste some barrel samples from Kent as well. The result……….so far so good, perhaps even excellent.
My wife, Rosalee, and I headed down to Kent’s vineyard last weekend to taste samples from twelve barrels. I’ll detail these in the next column but suffice it to say that there was not an overly tannic, brut wine in the bunch. I was suitably impressed that most of the wines have already developed a distinct personality and identity that range from light and delightful with defining acidity to the more structured and muscular. Kent shared with us that while he used to believe it was imperative to extract from the grape skins until there was no more, he has shifted his approach, balancing the fruit, tannins and acidity with greater precision. From his samples, I believe that he’s succeeding. We’ll have a video of our conversation with him as well over the next month so look for that on the Video segment.
Meanwhile, I headed up to Phoenix this week to video Sam Pillsbury and ask him about his perspective on the’09 vintage. He echoed Kent’s sentiment that the vintage appears to be stellar. Whereas some vintages yield varietals that can be marginal, challenging the vintner with difficult decisions, Sam said that there is not a weak wine in the bunch. Every sample, reds and whites, appear to have success imprinted upon them. They are just getting ready to bottle a white or two.
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Thursday, February 25th, 2010
Don’t look now, but it appears as if consumers are beginning to poke their heads out of the “bear” cave with thoughts of resuming life. What they’re finding is a life that has become radically different. Gone are the days of excess…..frugality is in. Gone are the days of home equity functioning as an ATM. Gone are the days when debt didn’t matter. Today, all of this matters!
In the big picture, we as Americans, are challenged with the largest loss of wealth in 75-80 years! Both common sense and history says that you just don’t simply rebound as if the event were a blip on the radar screen and it’s back to the good ole days. While we avoided depression II, we have since learned that it came perilessly close. In fact, it could be argued that if we did not have a Fed Chairman who was a true study of the Great Depression, we may have descended into that abyss (no political sermon here, just my opinion). It took us a good twenty years and a war to recover economically from the Great Depression with many of our parents still shuddering from the impact decades beyond. We are still in the embryonic stages of settling into an unknown economic equilibrium that once established, may well last for the next decade or even two. I would not at all be surprised to look back a decade from now to see that our economic growth was meager and job growth anemic….and we haven’t even broached the reality of debt repayment. Why this economics 1A class? Simple, we need jobs to generate income with which, in turn, we purchase commodities. If there are less dollars available to us, we tend to purchase less or seek out less expensive alternatives or perhaps both. I guess there is the alternative of adding more debt but I don’t think I have to go there.
As the local economy struggles to regain some footing, it’s heartening to see that consumer traffic is returning to restaurants and wine shops. Several of the restauranteurs have shared with me in confidence that business has not only stabilized, but improved over last year in some circles. Wine tastings and wine dinners seem to be well attended and traffic at many of the local vintner tasting rooms seems brisk as well. But there can be no doubt that consumers are far more tentative and value conscious in their choices than at any time in the recent past. The “big gorilla in the living room” question now is where do we, as wine and food enthusiasts, go from here? What will the “next generation” of leisure wine consumers look like?
It seems, all but scripted, that the next generation and perhaps the one following, will be selecting their wines from the ”value” category. Only the very fortunate will be able to entertain the higher end wines and that category is likely be redefined downward. Even a more select group will have the privilege of competing at auction. While new sources of money from countries such as China has returned to the high end wine market stabilizing prices, I don’t believe the country can support the wine market on it own. In addition, China recently hiked interest rates to tame its economy.
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Friday, February 12th, 2010
Just a few short years ago, in what now seems like another era, American wine consumers and especially collectors, were chasing wine prices into the stratosphere. I remember watching in amazement as the “auction value” of some Bordeaux wines doubled and tripled within a year or two. Fast forward now to the present, where deals for wines are as common as baseballs at spring training. As wine inventories continue to build worldwide and remain with us for the foreseeable future, I expect that this will be the norm.
I am interested in a deal for a good or even great wine as much as anyone else. But the one word that has risen from the dust that rankles me to no end is………..CHEAP. Promotions such as “Cheap wines sold here” or “Fine wine at cheap prices” makes me see red! The word just simply conjures up a vision of poorly crafted jug wine produced in mass quantity poured into a small bathroom sized glass. I know, I know……..I whined endlessly last year when a restaurant served red wine to me in a small table glass and I took issue with that behavior, as well. But to do the word justice, I thought that I would research the definition of “cheap.” After all, if I’m going to take sides, it should be based upon objective data.
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Monday, February 1st, 2010
Most of us tend to enjoy a given wine through its aromas and tastes (although it pains me to admit that there are a few that simply go for the price and hell with the quality). If the medley of scents and flavors are outstanding, chances are favorable that most of us will return. After all, the enjoyment of wine is a sensory experience. The problem is that many retailers, distributors and even vintners themselves don’t share the better wines with the public at large. The result is that much of what is offered in the commercial wine tastings is often average in quality, the consumer not allowed into the inner sanctum of top wines. Remember now, I’m talking top in quality, not necessarily in price. So why should the average Joe think about laying out extra monies if he’s not given the chance to taste the wine? Kind of a catch 22, don’t you think? Add to this that we now live in what I often refer to as a “new economic paradigm” where the consumer is strapped with debt and overly cautious with his discretionary monies and you have an equation for a wine glut! That being the case, I have a not so novel suggestion to make……….pop the corks, unscrew the caps and lure the consumer.
Listen to me, distributors, retailers and vintners. In times such as these, you need to give the buyer a reason to buy. Unlike so many other commodities that depend upon sight and touch, wine has only one place to go…..to your nose and palate. If you don’t tease the consumer with fragrance and taste, it will be a challenge to reel them in. If that means that you actually have to open up several $40, $50 or even $75 bottles, them by gosh do it! How are you going to convince your customer that the wine is worth the purchase if you don’t let them taste it? Let’s say that you open a dozen bottles of these wines with an average price of $60……that’s $720. Now let’s imagine that you chose those particular wines because you know that they have an amazing profile. That day, after tasting and some appetizers to pair, you sell a case of the $40, a half case of the $50 and two of the $75’s. That adds up to $930 or a 22.5% profit. It’s also reasonable to assume that at least a few guests will be return customers and perhaps even new regulars not to mention impressed that you took the risk to share these wines. So comm’on all of you in the winemaking industry………as the actors and actresses bellowed out in the Broadway play Mama Mia…………take a chance on me.
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Wednesday, January 20th, 2010
A few weeks back, we had dinner at JBar with some friends (www.janos.com). I always enjoy the chance to sample some of Janos uniquely accented dishes in a casual atmosphere. As is turns out three of the four of us ordered the Shrimp Mojo de Ajo.
Always interested by new wines, we asked the sommelier, Desiree, for ideas. She shared with us that Janos had a Brooks Riesling 2007 from the Willamette Valley whose claim to fame was that it was poured for President Obama at a dinner recently. We figured that if was good enough for the President……you know the rest. We all knew that with the wine originating in Oregon, not expect that steely acidity, citrus fruit and minerality that usually accompanies German and Alsatian Rieslings. The wine was opened a little before dinner served which offered us the chance to sample it. The color was light gold, a little darker than its European cousin but it was its aroma and flavor profile that caught all of us off guard. There was a somewhat hidden nose of lemon and pineapple fruit, unexpectedly soft citrus flavors in the mouth and a hint of petrol. We had to dig for the aromas, sniffing a few times, giving our nose a break and then sniffing again. There was a pleasant soft sense of sweetness to the wine along with a hint of acidity. Overall, the wine almost seemed to be hiding something that it just didn’t want to give up.
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Tags: Janos and J-Bar, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc Posted in Blog | 1 Comment - Submit Your Comment »
Monday, January 11th, 2010
I was graciously invited, recently, to an Arizona Wine Growers Association (www.arizonawine.org) meeting at Coronado Vineyards (www.coronadovineyards.com) in Wilcox after which the entire group was treated to a seminar by George Riedel of Riedel stemware. If you’re a wine enthusiast, you would have to live in a cave to have not heard of the company and the man. The origins of the Riedel tradition go back to the late 1600’s where one Johann Christoph Riedel traded luxury glass. The next generation, Johann Carl Riedel, was a gilder and glasscutter and the rest is, as they say, history. I was really looking forward to Georg’s presentation. I have read a bit about his passion and marketing expertise and wanted to see if he lived up the hype.
After the meeting was complete, we adjourned to a room where each table setting included a set of seven glasses. Georg politely greeted each participant, directing him or her to a vacant seat, his palm upright as he gestured to our chosen location. It all felt a bit European.
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Monday, December 28th, 2009
I will have no reservation about kissing the year 2009 goodbye and greeting 2010 when that ball drops in New York City on New Year’s Eve. This year has been one for the record books. First the awful climax of the financial crises followed by an equally historic meteoric rebound in world equity markets once investors were secure that the second Great Depression would be averted.
As the end of year closes in, I’ve been thinking about where we might go from here in 2010? For a change, I thought that it might be refreshing to start with some positive notes. These are not predictions, per se, but rather visions of how I think the year will unfold. We’ll revisit this piece at the end of next year.
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Wednesday, December 16th, 2009
After what I'm certain most would agree has been a chaotic year, it's more important than ever to focus upon some quality time with family and friends. So on this Christmas Eve day, let me wish those of you who celebrate this landmark holiday a festive, healthy and safe Christmas surrounded by those who are most meaningful to you. This is the time to focus upon the "good" in life.
With the year end holidays fast approaching, I thought that it would be fun to poll a few of the chefs in town and ask them which wines they would like to see on their holiday table. We were fortunate enough to catch up with Doug Levy of Feast (www.eatatfeast.com), Beverage House on East Broadway, Pat Connors from Pastiche (www.pasticheme.com), Kevin Anderson, Cellar Mgr of AJ’s Fine Foods (www.ajsfinefoods.com), Jeff Fuld of Elle (www.ellerestaurant.com) and the always entertaining Jonathan Landeen of Jonathan’s Cork (www.jonathanscork.com). Just for fun, I threw in a batch of varietals that I would like to see on a holiday table.
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Tags: AJ's Fine Foods, Elle Country Restaurant, Feast restaurant, Holiday wines, Jonathan's Cork, Pastiche Restaurant Posted in Blog | Submit Your Comment »
Monday, December 7th, 2009
This is the time of the year when I pull out all of the wine “wish” lists that I have accumulated over the year and review them. Mind you, these are not nice organized lists but rather “wants” scribbled on sheets of paper of all sizes…..post it notes, legal sized yellow pads, a stray napkin, etc. My job, if I decide to accept it (paying homage to the original 1960’s Mission Impossible), is to consolidate this mish mash of paper into a readable 2010 list.
No surprise to those who know me are the Rhone Rangers, both south and north. While Southern Rhone has gotten the majority of publicity for its stellar vintages over the last several years, Northern Rhone has some world class wines as well. On my list I have Vieux Donjon 2007 ( the ‘03’s, ‘04’s and ‘05’s are excellent, as well), Vieux Telegraph (2005 & 2007), Chateau Beaucastel 2007, St. Prefert, Domaine Charvin, Domaine Janasse, Pierre Usseglio both ‘05’s and ‘07’s. These are wines that range from $60-$150 and beg for a bargain. The ’06 and ‘07 Tardieu-Laurent VV Gigondas and Vacqueyras, the ‘07 Domaine Les Aphillanthes Cotes du Rhone VV and the Domaine des Escaravailles Cotes du Rhone Sablieres are front and center for me with the latter running less than $20. I’ll also keep an eye out for more of the affordable Northern Rhones such as the ’06 Jean Louis Chaves’s St Joseph Offerus and Silene, both of which are great wines for the price. I would love to grab some of his Hermitage but it’s just too pricey right now.
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Tags: Barbaresco, Barbera, Barolo, Bordeaux, Burgundy, Cabernet Franc, Chianti, Loire, Malbec, Portugal, Rhone, Riesling, Spanish wine, Tempranillo Posted in Blog | Submit Your Comment »
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