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Rule Number One in Hosting a Party

Monday, August 30th, 2010

On My MindOK, I admit it……….I’m a type A personality……..My children will acknowledge it, my step kids will echo the same and my wife…….well we don’t have to go there.  So it should come as no surprise that the demons have kicked in once again as my wife and I chart the course of my upcoming 60th  celebration.

From the beginning, my goal has been to share as much of my wine knowledge and enthusiasm with our guests as possible.   Translated, this means rolling out lots of wine from diverse regions around the globe.  And why not?  Good wine (and food) is meant to share with those you care about.  The title of this tasting menu extravaganza is appropriately coined “Wines Around the World.”  My vision is to pair the wines with the outstanding cuisine from Jax Kitchen (and soon to be added The Abby), run by Brian Metzger (www.jaxkitchen.com).

The plan is to start the guests off with a toast of California Sparkling wine paired with some crudités………..A nice hats off to the good ole USA.  Next up would be a trio of starter whites: White Burgundy, Viognier and a Hermitage Blanc to pair with preparations of scallops, lobster and mussels.  From there, we would dive into the “meat” of the tasting menu with five entrees comprised of lamb, pork (2 different styles and preparations), duck, and beef and wines to pair from both Northern (Syrah) and Southern (Chateauneuf-du-Pape) Rhone, Australia (Shiraz), Bordeaux and Spain (Ribera del Duero).  To close this gastronomic festival, I would highlight a couple of sweet dessert whites, perhaps a Sauternes, German Auslese Riesling or a late harvest Chenin Blanc and a Port to pair with a fruit based dessert and plate with a chocolate truffle, raisins and nuts.

Innovation versus Tradition

Thursday, August 19th, 2010

As we were traveling throughout Burgundy and Rhone wine country recently, I was struck by how much tradition plays a role in their life, not surprising in that so many of the vineyards have been passed down for multiple generations.  For example, Chateau Beaurenard in the Chateauneuf du Pape appellation, now run by the Coulon brothers Daniel and Frederick, has been in the family for seven generations dating back to the late 1600’s.  E Guigal still has artifacts from two centuries ago in their vineyards, recalling Roman times, and a wine cave hanging sculpture that dates back well over a thousand years.  All of this got me to thinking about the role of tradition and what some might consider to be its nemesis, innovation.

Now I have to admit, I have a soft sentimental spot for tradition.  When younger and asked what I would wish for if I had a time machine, I would response that I wanted to meet the great settlers, leaders and innovators who set the foundation of what we have today.   On a fundamental basis, tradition allows us to reconnect to our past, to those people, processes and events without which we probably wouldn’t be what we are today.  If not for the colonists, willing to chance a break from England, I suspect that our destiny might have altered.  Personally, I use the Thanksgiving holiday and Independence Day to reconnect me to those who sacrificed themselves so that I can live the way I do today.  I’m sure that many of you use Veterans Day in the same manner.  It’s a subtle reminder of what we have today, the results of hard work, dedication to principles and risk taking.   Tradition also lends us a sense of security, something to adhere to when doubts tremor our foundation.  How many times have you heard your parents say, “this is how we’ve always done it.”  If it got them to where they are today and safely, why not continue?  As my father used to say, “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.”

French Take on 2009 Bordeaux Futures Pricing

Friday, August 13th, 2010

We all know how insane the pricing of the 2009  en primeur Bordeaux has become, with first growths commanding over $1000 per bottle to be delivered sometime late in 2011 or 2012.  As we were traveling through France from Paris to Burgundy, Rhone and points south, I used the opportunity to ask both consumers and wine industry professionals alike of their opinion about the pricing.  After all, it is possible that we here in the United States, view this differently than wine lovers in France.  The responses were interesting.

On the whole, wine consumers seemed to be indifferent to the issue.  Most people sip on a glass of affordable everyday local wine either at home or at a local bistro.  There are so many very affordable “village” wines for daily drinking that never make it out of the country (no exporter), that it really makes no difference what Bordeaux does.  As well, remember that Bordeaux is on the southwest side of France, quite some distance from Paris, Burgundy and Rhone so consumers there are pretty divorced from the hype.

When in Beaune, Have Dinner in Caves

Monday, August 2nd, 2010

During our recent visit to France, we made a point of spending a couple of days in Beaune, located at the northern edge of the Cote de Beaune appellation.  The city has quite a history dating back to the time when Julius Caesar founded the town as a Roman camp and later becoming the seat of the dukes of Burgundy until the 13th century.  By the 18th century, Beaune was already on its way to becoming the center of the Burgundy wine industry, establishing houses such as Champy and Bouchard.  Today, you can add names such as Jadot, Latour and Bouchard Pere & Fils.

The city, encircled by a single street, is packed with history (Hotel Dieu, founded by Nocolas Rolin in 1443 and the hospices de Beaune) and quaint boutiques, bistros and restaurants.  The cobblestone streets are intimate, allowing for only one lane of traffic, as browsers casually drift in and out of the stores.  If you’re visiting over a Saturday, be prepared for the very energetic and festive farmers market that literally takes over the center of town from 7:30 in the morning until shortly after noon.  Freshly cultivated culinary goods take front and center stage.  The aromas of fresh vegetables and fruit intermingle with stands of freshly cut provincial flowers.  A few booths down, you begin to pick up the mouth watering scent of freshly roasting chickens on spits.  If you’re in the mood for the raw version or freshly prepared sausage, there are endless choices.  If it’s samples you’re looking for, the vendors will be more than pleased to offer dips of fresh olives, tomatoes, spices and oils.  Then, of course, there are the freshly dried Provencial spices and mustards, both of which we took advantage of by adding to the local economy.  Away from the culinary theme, you’ll find the usual market stables such as outer, underwear, shoes, pocketbooks and the like.  To add “mood’ to the event, a few native Ecuadoran flutists instilled the air with waves of rich musical notes, the melody creating its own sea of tranquility.

Speaking With Patrice Rion

Monday, July 26th, 2010

When in Burgundy, recently, we caught up with Patrice Rion, one of the Nuits-St.-George premier winemakers.  You can see our interview with him on the video segment.

For those of you who have attempted to navigate the roadways to Burgundy vintners, you know how challenging directions can be.  After kindly offering to see us on a Sunday and then becoming so lost that our GPS was confused, we called Patrice and he kindly guided us in after an errant stop at the Daniel Rion vineyards just up the street.  Just as we began our discussion with him, he had to briefly rush out to assist a neighbor  in extinguishing a small field fire.

Wine Appreciation: More Than Just Tasting

Sunday, July 18th, 2010

We just returned from a two week voyage thru Burgundy and Rhone country, sampling some the region’s best wines.  Stepping away from the computer, while a necessity to refuel, always makes me feel a bit clumsy and rusty on reentry.  In addition, I’m still a little jet lagged so my apologies if this piece is, shall we say, a little foggy. 

On planning our itinerary, we had one of two choices in tasting strategy.   We could focus on quantity or upon quality.  Both have their advantages.  If the goal is to simply taste as many wines from as many vintners as possible, then the strategy would be to stop at every winery along the route, tasting from dawn to dusk.  For those of you who have frequented this region, you know that’s not a difficult task with wineries every few hundred feet, it seems.  The advantage here is that you get to compare the aromatic profile of scores of wines in a relatively short period of time.  If you’re focused, you can actually recall which best pleased your palate.  It’s a simple check the wine box strategy.   The alternative is to get underneath the wine profile itself, digging into the philosophy of the vintner and strategy that resulted in the end product.  In order to execute this, you must take the time speak with the vintner (or staff representative) and tour the vineyard(s) and wine making facility.  The advantage here is that when you’re offered samples of the wines, you can you really understand why they reveal a particular profile.  The down side for those focused upon quantity is that the sheer number of tastings is limited due to time constraints.  If you spend a few hours of time in the morning with a given vintner, grab some lunch and then do an instant replay in the afternoon, the day yields two visits.

The 2009 First Growth Bordeaux Futures are in and………….

Tuesday, June 29th, 2010

They’re record breaking……….just no other way to say it.  With the first Bordeaux futures tranches or allotments now released, they’re every bit as staggering as envisioned.  Chateau Lafite and Mouton Rothschild and Margaux released their first tranche pricing from the Chateau’s at $550US while Haut Brion went one better at $612US.   Remember, these are not the final consumer prices as negociant and retail pricing must be added in.  When all is said and done, some of these will approach or even exceed $1000US.   Fueled by a slowly rebounding US economy, efforts to stabilize European countries such as Greece and Spain and still vigorous and financially flushed China, vintners are counting on a brisk consumer response to still another “Bordeaux vintage of the century,” right on the heels of the 2000 and 2005 (not that 2003 was shabby either).  Right out the gate, they appear to have some justification for elation.  Many US merchants report that consumers are ruefully paying up for the rights to own some of these treasures in 2012 while others say that there is some sticker shock and restraint.  The strongest consumer push behind these prices seems to be flowing from Beijing, Shanghai and Hong Kong.  It remains to be seen whether they have force to maintain the early intense demand.   As a framework for comparison, these futures prices are the highest on record, surpassing even the hot 2005 futures prices, this while our equity markets have essentially stagnated for the last decade and we emerge from the worst economic environment in nearly 80 years!  How about that for a disconnect!  So how does one make sense of all of this?  In a nutshell, it’s a case of another great Bordeaux vintage along with a keen sense of marketing and timing by the Bordelais region that convinces wine enthusiasts around the globe that you just “gotta have it, right here, right now.” 

As mentioned earlier, only a fraction of each of the first growth’s  futures have been made public, perhaps only a third by some estimates.  Does this mean that pricing for future tranches will change?  Possibly.  If China (with the support of other markets) can exhaust the supply, then prices will either maintain or increase (pretty scary).  If, however, it becomes clear that the initial fervor has subsided and demand has stabilized at a lower level, perhaps pricing will soften slightly.  Either way, I don’t envision any bargains based upon the initial response.   So where do you (and I) fit into this equation?  Do we close our eyes, open our wallets and pull out the credit card?  In order to answer this question, we need to look at some very basic parameters.  At the very foundation of it all is what you can afford?  If you can’t afford what you want, then afford what you can.  The great equalizer in a superb vintage such as the ’09, the 05 and the ‘00 is that it tend to lift “all boats” or all wines, in our case.  If the first growths are out of your range, don’t hesitate to explore the 2nd through 5ths as well as the non-classifieds.

A Lesson in Etiquette

Wednesday, June 16th, 2010

I was dining out recently with my wife, daughter and her boyfriend at a cozy yet festive restaurant.  The dining area is quite small, seating only around 35 guests with a bar that I would guess seats 15 or 16 more.  We sat down around 6:00, slowly ordered some appetizers and wine and just enjoyed the prelude to our dinner.  It probably took us until around 7:00 to finally get around to ordering dinner.  Between eating, enjoying the wines and festive conversation, followed by dessert, the clock hit 8:30 and then some.  The check arrived promptly with dessert, but we just took our time to enjoy the end of the evening, observing strolling passersby from the large picture window.  With our plates and coffee cups long since empty, we renewed conversation when our server approached us politely and requested that we “donate” our table to those in wait.  Oblivious to the crowd that has assembled at the bar, including those standing, waiting for their turn, I apologized for the inconvenience, paid the bill and well wished the owner for a delicious dinner.  After we left the premises, my wife and daughter expressed dismay that we had been asked to leave.

Taken for face value, I certainly understood their rational.  We were paying customers and why shouldn’t we have the right to remain as long as desired?  My approach to that question, however, came from an alternative vantage point.  This is a small and popular restaurant.  As such, the tables and bar fills quickly, most at the bar waiting their turn for a table.  It’s ok to occupy the table for dining purposes but to simply hang out and schmooze, denying waiting patrons a space, not mention ownership risking the patrons defecting to a competitor down the street, is very understandable.  This was not, after all, a large multipurpose restaurant with lots of available tables.  Remember, this is, after all, a business and the goal is to monetarily support it through the best service to a medley of guests.  We had our time, we were serviced impeccably, contributed in our own small way toward “supporting” the restaurant, but it was time to move on.   Sometimes, we need a subtle reminder of the right thing to do and if it’s executed with finesse and diplomacy, then I’m happy to oblige.  What would you have done?

Celebrating the World Cup

Wednesday, June 9th, 2010

Attention planet earth inhabitants:  you are about to embark upon a competition that will pit you against your brethren from every corner of your planet.  In the end, it’s the last team standing.  It’s a happening bigger than the MLB World Series, bigger than the NBA finals…..even bigger than the Superbowl.  I’m referring, of course, to the upcoming World (Soccer) Cup.  While we in the United States still place baseball and football at the top of the sports kingdom, the rest of world embraces soccer (their football).  The kickoff, no pun intended, is this Friday morning, MST and I plan to cheer it on.  So how does a wine enthusiast, such as myself, celebrate the event.

Well, considering that the entire match is to be played in South Africa, I thought that it would be proper to celebrate with some South Africa wines.  So where should I start?  Well, I thought it might be interesting to attempt to pair the wines with a few South African dishes.  I had to embark upon some research as my familiarity with South Africa cuisine is non-existent.  I found a recipe for an interesting Yellow Melon Muscadel (Melon Salad) that incorporates fruit juice, lemon juice, cantaloupe and watermelon along with a little Muscadel wine, sugar, salt and pepper.  I figure I can pair that with an indigenous Sauvignon Blanc (Ken Forrester or Warwick).  Next up, I am intrigued by the Mealie soup.  Now before you conjure up distasteful images of this dish, let me allay your fears…………….it’s corn soup.  Ingredients include butter, onions, tomatoes, canned and creamed corn, evaporated milk, chicken stock, salt and pepper.  The richness of the soup seems to beg for a rich Chenin Blanc….look for the Ken Forrester, De Trafford, and Raats.  For a main dish, I could elect to go for the Bobotie (meat pie) but it incorporates lemon juice, curry powder and apple and I really want to go for the Ernie Els Stellenbosch Bordeaux blend (www.ernieels.com/wine).  I’m afraid that the citrus and curry elements might not allow the wine to show its best and the Ernie Els blend is one of the best reds that South Africa has to offer.  So excuse me for omitting the meat pie but I think the wine deserves a big piece of meat.  So for this one, I’m hopping a plane back to the US for a Prime Sirloin or Ribeye.  I’ve paired these before and it’s a great match!  For dessert, how about a Klappertert (coconut pie).  For that, I scouted out a Chardonnay, either the Excelsior or the Fleur du Cap.  Both are mid range on the quality scale, very affordable with the latter sporting a little more fullness.  I’ll let you know the pairings and dishes work out.  Meanwhile, you can learn more about South Africa and its wines by clicking here and about Ernie Els and his wines by clicking here.

Arizona Wines Take Another Leap Forward

Thursday, June 3rd, 2010

I attended, as an observer, the much advertised wine competition between Arizona wines and domestic and international wines.  The concept, launched by Pavle Milec of FnB restaurant in Scottsdale (www.fnbrestaurant.com) was an effort to determine how Arizona whites and reds would fare against like contenders.  Pavle has shown himself to somewhat of a maverick (no comparison intended to John McCain), establishing a restaurant serving only Arizona wines and locally grown and often organic foods.  His dishes are delicious and the pairings, right on the money.

Pavle requested top reds and whites from statewide vintners.  From there, a neutral panel tasted and evaluated them and from the group, chose those that they believed represented the best of each.  In the end, five whites and five reds were paired against chosen domestic and international varietals that best seemed to be worthy and fair contenders.  For example, a locally produced Tempranillo might be paired with its Spanish varietal.  Or a locally blended white might have been paired against a Chardonnay or Pinot Grigio.  There were some worthy domestic and international contenders in the group.  Lynch Bages '05 was a representative red Bordeaux, E. Guigal represented the red Cotes du Rhone '06, Condado de Haza was a well known Spanish entry, Mollydooker The Boxer '08 showed its powerful Aussie 100 % Shiraz and Ruffino Chianti Classico made an appearance.   Cakebread Chardonnay, a Turley white and the Caymus Conundrum enter the competition as whites.

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