Dinner Tonight

Dinner With an “Original”

Wednesday, September 1st, 2010

My wife and I stopped in last Thursday evening to say hi to Albert Hall of Acacia (www.acaciatucson.com), a long standing member of the Tucson Originals (www.tucsonoriginals.com).  In case you haven’t noticed, Albert’s lineup of gems continues to expand.  First it was Marketplace, then Tohono Chul and now the Tucson Botanical Gardens.  Clearly, Albert likes to keep himself busy!  Speaking of busy, it was a delight to see the restaurant so packed and lively………hopefully a good sign for the upcoming season.

We had three choices for dinner that evening: the last of the Thursday evening Beach Party menu items, the outstanding tasting menu pairing savory dishes with wine (http://www.acaciatucson.com/menu.php?Tasting-Menu-6) ,or items off the main menu.  In the end, we went with some starters and items off the main menu, trying to coordinate the dishes with wine by the glass for both of us.   For starters, we elected to split the dungeness crab cakes with curry remoulade, rouille, tortilla, jicama and fennel slaw and the iceberg wedge salad accented with apple wood smoked bacon, blue cheese and creamy chive dressing.  For the main event, my wife set her sights on the crab legs with warm drawn butter and I the scaloppini of free range Wisconsin veal filled with dungeness crab, artichokes and roasted red peppers, garden vegetables, sauce marsala. 

Next, we had to decide upon a wine.  A zippy and crisp white seemed to be the way to go between the shellfish, salad with blue cheese and veal.  For fun, we tried two different wines by the glass.  I opted for the Adelsheim Pinot Gris ’08 from the Willamette Valley displaying lively aromas of grapefruit and melon.  It was an excellent match.  My wife went with the Domane Wachau Gruner Veltliner Federspiel Trocken Wachau Terrassen, ’07, a great choice with a clean acidic spine of crisp green apple and citrus notes yet still retaining structure.  It worked outstandingly with the salad and crab legs. 

Looking For Dinner in All the Wrong Places

Monday, August 23rd, 2010

I was in a quandary the other evening when my wife asked me what we should have for dinner.  Hemming and hawing, jumping from one food group to the other, I just couldn’t get my palate excited about anything.  It was one of those searing hot mid August days with just enough humidity to add discomfort but not enough to fuel any storms.   Speaking to my wife and dog who was only half listening, I pondered a summer salad………no not enough body…….....then a steak……..nope………..too filling.  At that point, my wife said, let’s have a steak salad.  Suddenly, I had my solution.  Here I go mumbling and my wife cobbles it together in a second.  Do we make a great team?

While she whipped up a very hearty salad, I salted, peppered and hickory smoked a juicy sirloin.  I also swabbed some butter on the steak to add some richness to the flavor.  To give the salad a bit of added earthiness, I suggested sautéing some sliced portabella mushrooms in butter and garlic and for “kicks,” several smoked Hatch New Mexico Chiles.  This would add some great summer smoked scents to the salad.   I fired up the grill and let it heat for about 30 minutes, wanting to get the temperature to around 500 degrees.  Once it was there, I seared the steaks on both sides, turned the heat down to low and allowed the steaks to cook inside.  With the outside well cooked yet the steaks still plump with juices, I removed them and proceeded to remove the fat and cut the lean portion into very thin slices.  I layered the steak tastefully (no pun intended……….really) on top of the salad and then came the first challenge……………….dressing…………….no dressing…………….what do I do?  Fortunately, my palate directed me all the way because my brain was of no help.  I was in the mood for blue cheese.  It pairs outstandingly with steak.  Even better, I had some fresh blue cheese to crumble in as well.  This all got my taste buds jumping in anticipation. 

Searching For A Hearty Dish in the Middle of Summer

Wednesday, August 11th, 2010

Bringing Home a Traditional Dish From Provence

Monday, July 19th, 2010

Anyone who has visited Paris and “toured” the city knows how much walking you can do in a day.  (There’s always the local bus and metro if you want some relief).  We probably walked a good five to seven miles every day.  During one of those particularly tiring days, we found ourselves hungry during the mid-afternoon and stepped into a casual bistro, of which there must be hundreds.  We needed something to carry us over until dinner, which usually is not served in French restaurants until 7:30 at earliest.  As we scanned the menu, we noticed that the traditional French dish Ratatouille was listed.  This really appealed to us, being a hearty vegetable dish.  Ratatouille originate in Nice, the original name being Ratatouille nicoise.  This tomato based dish was perfect with its stewed mix of eggplant, bell peppers, zucchini, squash, onions and fresh dried Provencial spices.

Yesterday, still being a little jet lagged, my wife and I were searching for a savory yet not overly filling dinner.  Remember, we just came off of two weeks worth of rich French food, not the least of which were breads and cheeses galore!  Ratatouille seemed to fill the bill.  We stole the recipe from the William Sonoma Essentials of French Cooking (on the Recipe section), let it stew in a covered pot for a few hours, added a few pieces of sourdough bread on the side and then turned our sites to a wine.

Jonathan’s Cork Menu Pairings…..Two Special Seafood Items

Thursday, June 24th, 2010

Jonathan Landeen is renown for his flavorful style of dishes from seafood to ostrich.  This time, Jonathan has suggested that you sample two of his seafood menu items, one a starter and the other an entre.

The first item on the menu is a starter.  It's the Crab Cakes made with Blue crab meat combined with a savory bread crumb dressing, then sautéed to a golden brown for $9.50.  This one is made for a white....the Spanish Quarter white a Spanish blend w/ chardonnay and albarino.

A “Feast” for Your Dinner (Tonight)

Monday, June 14th, 2010

Feast restaurant (www.eatatfeast.com) is one of Tucson perennial favorites.  Doug always seems to have some delicious dishes to savor.  And with his wine store always packed, there is always a large inventory from which to choose.   I asked Doug recently to put together a couple of his menu favs and suggest a wine pairing.  He did one better.  He offered up three outstanding dishes, each with a pairing wine.

The first is his Pulled Pork “Pissaladière”~  A classic savory tart of caramelized onions, white anchovies, olives and fresh thyme, with the addition of braised pork and fresh spinach. Served with seasonal vegetables, this dish runs only $16.   For the wine, Doug suggests the 2007 Palamà “Metiusco” (Negroamaro/Malvasia Nera/Montepulciano/Primitivo,) Salento $31.  The wine offers up aromas of black cherry, plum and a hint of raison and earthy tones.

Dinner Tonight: Elle’s Chilean Tour

Saturday, June 5th, 2010

Once again this summer, owner Jeff Fuld of Elle Wine Country restaurant (www.ellerestaurant.com) has launched his successful wine and food tour around the globe.  Each “stop” pairs food and wine from a given region for three weeks.

The first stop on this year’s tour is Chile, a region that has made an impressive mark for itself over the last decade.  It should come as no surprise then that the Colchagua Valley yielded the Casa Lapostole Clos Apalta 2005, the Wine Spectator number one wine of the year in 2008.  With that in mind, here’s Jeff’s suggestions for his Chilean Dinner tonight:

A Jax Kitchen Moment

Wednesday, May 12th, 2010

While only a couple of years old, Jax Kitchen on N. Oracle and Ina has clearly made itself a name.  Brian and Sandy Metzger have placed themselves on the Tucson map through their outstanding food, relaxed yet elegant atmosphere and placing first in the Culinary Festival Margarita competition each of the last two years.

Clearly Rosalee and I had seafood on our mental palate this evening, Rosalee starting with chorizo spiced steamed mussels in white wine, lemon zest and caramelized onions and me with the sea scallops accessorized by whipped carrots, frazzled leeks and potatoes with a balsamic reduction.  Knowing that we were going with lighter seafood (vs. salmon or tuna), and her mussels steamed with white wine, we knew that a crisp and clean white was a certainty.  We narrowed the choice down to a couple of White Burgundies when another caught my eye.  It was a Sancerre, the Pascal &  Nicolas Reverdy “cuvee les coutes” .  This isn’t a wine that’s on the tip of the palate for most wine consumers, most likely because they have not been exposed to it.   Sancerre is a small region in the eastern most Loire Valley of France and is renown for its Sauvignon Blanc.  The climate is distinctly continental with short and often hot summers and long cold winters.  Soils are dominated by limestone and clay and topped with gravel and flinty pebbles.  Sauvignon Blancs that come from the limestone and gravelly soils tend to be lighter and more steely while those from clay are more full bodied with stronger flavors.  The “classic” Sancerre is usually bone dry and very aromatic.

A Dinner Made For A Chianti

Monday, May 3rd, 2010

We were in the mood for a hearty, slow cooked dinner last night, one of those dishes that fills the kitchen with savory, earthy aromas.  My wife settled on chicken cacciatore.  Once she uttered the words, my palate knew exactly where to go……….Chianti.

We picked up a whole 4 lb chicken from AJ’s and had them separate out the thigh, breast and legs.  After cleaning off the pieces, she padded them dry and added just touch of olive oil followed by Chardonnay salt and pepper seasoning.  To a large frying pan, she added lemon juice, garlic and thyme and a bit of butter over medium heat.  When the mixture was hot, she added in the chicken, turning frequently until brown.  The chicken was removed to a separate plate, leaving behind some chicken fat in the pan.  She poured off most of the fat, leaving just a bit for sautéing a large yellow onion, thinly sliced.  From there, she added in small portabello mushrooms (you can add as much as you like……..the more you add, the more “earthy” the dish becomes……we went with about a pound).  After the mushrooms had softened a bit, she added in a standard 28 oz can of whole plum (Roma) tomatoes and a half to three quarters of a cup of chicken broth.  She raised the heat to high bringing the mixture to a boil and deglazing the pan, scraping up the darkened brown bits at the bottom of the pan. 

Dinner Tonight Becomes Dinner For Two Nights

Wednesday, April 28th, 2010

The other day was one of those non stop days, jumping from one meeting to another to another.  Suddenly, it was late afternoon and I realized that I hadn’t made plans for dinner.  I headed over to AJ’s and picked up a piece of their Baja chicken breast.  This looked intriguing to me, a fresh chicken breast layered in a creamy Caesar based sauce pureed with jalapenos and stuffed with Anaheim chili and a cream cheese based sauce.  Thinking about a wine to pair, an oaked, creamy Chardonnay would have worked but I wanted to stick with something in my cellar.  Then it hit me.  I picked up a half dozen Chateau Haut Smith Lafitte, a white Bordeaux, a couple of years of ago on sale at AJ’s.  For those of you unfamiliar with this varietal, it’s a blend of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc.  The Semillon offers a full and almost waxy lemony and honey scent reminiscent of lemon meringue pie while the Sauvignon Blanc brings its citrus acidity.  The wine normally runs around $55-60 but as I recall, it was discounted into the $40s. 

After baking the chicken covered at ~400 degrees for 30 minutes, I uncovered it and allowed it to crisp slightly on top for the next 15 minutes.  At the last minute, I pulled the wine out of the cellar which runs around 56 degrees, allowed it to warm just a smidge for about 10 minutes and popped the cork.  Just as it should be, the wine was a honeyed gold color with scents of rich, creamy lemon and maybe a hint of citrus and almond.  It all hinted at a rich but not sweet white.  But it was at its best when paired with the creaminess of the Baja chicken.  Neither player dominated and the two played seamlessly off of one another.

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