When I’m searching for a clean and crisp white to pair with say, lighter fish, salads, even fried foods, one of my go to wines is a Pinot Bianco (Pinot Blanc in the U.S.) from Italy. Unfortunately, it’s also a wine that just seems to get “no respect,” as Rodney used to say. That’s too bad because this is one of the most affordable, clean and crisp everyday drinking whites.
DNA testing has proven that the Pinot Blanc grape is a mutation of the Pinot Noir grape and genetically similar to Pinot Gris. The latter, however, usually tends to have a rounder and richer texture. The expression of the grape, in its purest form, is delicate, fresh and clean with a citrusy character of green apple, pear, melon, pineapple and hints of almond and flowers.
Pinot Blanc is grown in many regions around the globe. Italy (Pinot Bianco), one of my favorites, usually displays a nice round body and a racy acidity. It’s that vibrant acidity that makes food pairing so easy and the wine so cleansing. The U.S. produces Pinot Blanc, mostly in California and Oregon. Those from California are often made from the Melon de Bourgogne grape, used to produce the famed French Muscadet. The result, in the couple that I’ve sampled, is a wine without much personality and far too much oak. Oregon Pinot Blanc tends to be more true to the pure personality of the grape. Canada also produces very nice Pinot Blanc, mainly in British Columbia and Vancouver Island.
While I have been so impressed with the Nebbiolo based wines coming out of Piedmont for many years, that feeling was redoubled after our recent Piedmont voyage and visits with stories vintners such as Luca Currado of Vietti (www.vietti.com, Roberto Voerzio, and Paolo Scavino (www.paoloscavino.com).
First, a word or two about the word Nebbiolo. Buried within the word is the word “nebbia” which means fog. Usually during the harvest season, which historically has occurred in mid to even late October, a deep fog will settle into the vineyards. This year has witnessed one of the earliest harvests on record, some vintners already finished, all courtesy of a very warm season.
By Dr. David Muhleman, Ph.D, CSW and Wine Connoisseur Extraordinaire
“An appellation is a legally defined and protected geographical area used to identify where the grapes for a wine were grown. Restrictions other than geographical boundaries, such as what grapes may be grown, maximum grape yields, alcohol level, and other quality factors, may also apply before an appellation name may legally appear on a wine bottle label. The rules that govern appellations are dependent on the country in which the wine was produced (Wikipedia).”
Chances are, the last time you enjoyed a glass of red wine, that you gave much thought to why the wine looked, smelled and tasted as it did. Unless you’re steeped in the biochemistry field, you (and I) are simply searching for that well balanced red that can be enjoyed on its own or with food. But have you ever given thought to why a red looks, smells, tastes and “feels” the way it does in your mouth? What is it that makes it the perfect match for food or alternatively, what is it that simply fights with a dish? The answer lies within the field of biochemistry.
If not already, familiarize yourself with the term phenol. While I have no intention of launching into a detailed discussion about the chemical structure of this group of several hundred compounds, they all have a common structural element, a hydroxyl group (-OH) bonded directly to an aromatic hydrocarbon group. But oh yes, I promised that I would steer clear of biochemistry. Anyway, bond more than one phenol together and you get……….polyphenols.
Q: Are there plans for new wine ventures at Schramsberg?
A: We are always looking for ways to improve our wines. One thing we are constantly on the lookout for are new vineyard sources to add to our portfolio. This is something that never stops. In regards to new releases, we have some very exciting wines due out over the next year. For starters, we will be releasing our newest J. Schram Rosé in late 2011. This wine has been sold out for almost two years, as it is not something that we produce every year. Only years that show to be the highest in quality, do we make a J. Schram Rosé. Also, in late 2011, we will be releasing the first of three vineyard designated Pinot Noir table wines, under the Davies Vineyards brand. This is our first venture in making a still table wine with the Pinot Noir grape, but not our first venture in making a still wine. In 2001, we made our first commercial J. Davies Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon. With all of the wonderful vineyard sources that we have established over the years, we thought that producing a Pinot Noir table wine would be a natural progression for what we could do next. The wines are stunning, and we can’t wait to make them available. Finally, 2012 will mark the 150th anniversary of the founding of Schramsberg Vineyards, by Jacob Schram.
We caught up recently with Matt Levy, PR and Marketing Manager of Schramsberg Sparkling Wine estate in Calistoga California, and winemaker Keith Hock to speak with them about their operations and some exciting upcoming new releases. Schramsberg is a premier producer of Sparking Wines whose roots go back to 1862 and German founder Jacob Schram. While the estate has changed ownership hands several times since the death of Jacob, it has been in the highly qualified hands of the Davies family since 1965 and continues to flourish. Here's part I of our interview.
Q: Schramsberg resources grapes from many different vineyard sites. What’s the benefit to resourcing grapes from such a diversity of the site?
I'd like to personally welcome John Giebler, certified sommelier and tour guide for Insider Wine Tours in Italy. With a wealth of wine travel experience, John is launching his series on wine travel with the Wineinquirer.com. Not only is his first column instructive, but humerous and redolent for anyone who has dared travel the trains throughout Europe.
Have you ever tasted a wine that’s one of your “go to” wines only to find that the current vintage doesn’t quite stand up to last year’s? Perhaps the fruit is not quite as pronounced this time around or the wine just seems a little out of balance. Or have you noticed that you prefer a varietal from one region but just can’t quite get a grasp on why you don’t like the same style from another? There’s sound reasoning behind this and sorting through the process is great way to further educate your palate. The fact is, you’re not just imagining the differences. For example, there’s a real contrast between that California Merlot and the Italian version and between the Arizona Syrah and the Rhone style, the secret buried within the three major essentials that define a wine’s character: terroir, the vineyard manager and the winemaker or vigneron. Dig down into each of these and you’ll better understand why such differences exist, not mention enhancing your wine tasting skills.
Terroir is a term that generates LOTS of emotion and debate, even amongst seasoned wine experts. And it’s no wonder why. The term is meant to identify a geographic area (everything from a single vineyard to an appellation to a larger region) which shares a similar climate, soil (geology), topography and exposure. Some say that it defines a sense of place which embodies similar characteristics. To add complexity, some will broaden the definition terroir to include elements that are influenced by human interactions (enhancing soil nutrients, irrigation, etc.). Any way you define it, the concept of terroir does play a significant role in the profile of the grape and its wine. If you think about it, it makes sense that a given vineyard, nurtured by its specific soil composition, its nutrients and moisture content, climate and exposure, will yield grapes that reflect the environment. In turn, this will be expressed in the grape’s balance of fruit, acids, sugars, tannins (reds) and sense of minerality. Let me offer a hypothetical example using the Sauvignon Blanc grape.
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