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Posts Tagged ‘Barbera’

Luca Currado of the Renown Vietti Estate to Visit Tucson and Phoenix

Saturday, January 21st, 2012

It’s no secret that I love Vietti wines.   There………I said it.  From the entry level, everyday Dolcetto with its juicy flavors to the small production single vineyard “cru” displaying the finest structure and balance you’ll ever taste in a Barolo,  vintner and owner Luca Currado never takes his eyes off the vineyards and winery.

Blessed by grandfather Mario and father Alfredo, Luca has been infused with the best of tradition and innovation.  He knows that the greatness of wine does lie with a single man or woman, but rather in the vineyard where terroir sets the stage.  Once that foundation is set, the vintner can work with his or her inherent skills to guide and refine what nature has bestowed.

For those of you in Tucson or Phoenix, you have a rare opportunity to meet Luca at wine pairing dinners in both cities and trust me when I tell you that you won’t meet a more engaging, energetic and bright man.  He’ll be in Tucson for one evening only on January 30th and in Scottsdale on the 31rst.  You can read all the details about each event in our Local Wine Events column. 

Vietti Estate: Perfecting the Blend of Tradition and Innovation

Saturday, January 21st, 2012

Greatness is rarely achieved without sacrifice, determination and an innovative vision of what could be.  Fortunately for wine enthusiasts, Patriarch Mario Vietti, in the 19th century, embraced all three attributes and launched what today is one of finest estates in the Piedmont region.

While today, the Vietti estate is run by Mario’s great grandson, the always affable and dynamic Luca Currado, Luca well understands and identifies closely with the family heritage that laid the foundation for today’s successes.  After returning to Piedmont from the US (Boston), Mario executed a business strategy that was viewed as shear lunacy!  He began to trade hectares of land parcels for the best vineyard soil and terroir, travelling from village to village.  So outrageous was this approach that it earned him the nickname the “crazy Americano.”  Clearly, Mario was not only not crazy but on to a concept that would transform the estate into a world class winery.

Aglianico: Southern Italy’s Wine Gem

Monday, October 17th, 2011

When I think of the great grapes from Italy, it’s a natural to turn to names such as Nebbiolo, Barbera and Sangiovese.  But to the south of Rome, in the Campania and Basilicata region, is a grape that produces impressively robust reds that in the best cases are truly age worthy.  The grape’s name is Aglianico.

Without competition, the Aglianico is the most complex and hearty grape of southern Italy.  The grape, sometimes referred to as the “Barolo of the south,” is characterized by inky dark, even black cherry fruit, intensely huge tannins and laser sharp acidity.  The wine boasts robust and bold black cherry, plum and blackberry flavors, grilled herbs, chocolate and expresso coffee, smoke, spice, tar, and leather.  While the grape’s home is southern Italy, it is grown in Victoria and South Australia and in California’s Sierra Foothills and South Central Coast area of Paso Robles.

Nebbiolo: Rekindling a Love Affair

Tuesday, September 27th, 2011

While I have been so impressed with the Nebbiolo based wines coming out of Piedmont for many years, that feeling was redoubled after our recent Piedmont voyage and visits with stories vintners such as Luca Currado of Vietti (www.vietti.com, Roberto Voerzio, and Paolo Scavino (www.paoloscavino.com).

First, a word or two about the word Nebbiolo.  Buried within the word is the word “nebbia” which means fog.  Usually during the harvest season, which historically has occurred in mid to even late October, a deep fog will settle into the vineyards.  This year has witnessed one of the earliest harvests on record, some vintners already finished, all courtesy of a very warm season.

Pairing Food With “The Sweet One:” Dolcetto

Thursday, August 18th, 2011

Dolcetto’s name is translated into “little sweet one,” the wine often gifted with explosive ripe red and black fruits and dark color.  What it lacks in Barbera’s acidity, it makes up for in depth of fruit.  As you will see, it can certainly match up to many of the same foods as Barbera, but also can be enjoyed on its own, if crafted well.

The home of Dolcetto is in the Piedmont region, most classic in Alba, Dogliani, and Ovada.  While the grape is planted on occasion outside of Italy, it has yet to reach the quality nor attention that it so richly deserves in the Piedmont region.   Dolcetto is a grape that could be described as unpretentious, charming and straight forward.  It’s an early ripening variety, easily grown without the idiosyncrasies of other grapes.  The result is a wine that, if matured in unoaked containers, is meant for near term enjoyment.  Occasionally, you may find a Piedmont vintner blending Dolcetto with Barbera but my experience has been that that usually is not the case.   As Dolcetto is low in natural acidity, it tends to lack that zip that accompanies Barbera and thus doesn’t quite pair as well with fatty or highly textured dishes.  The wine is not intended to pair with fine or elegant cuisine.  It’s advantage, however, is in its ability to pair well with more rustic, everyday dishes such as burgers, sausages, pizza, and roasted chicken and appetizers and hors d’oeuvres such as antipasto or a pasta dish with a creamy tomato sauce.  Deli sandwiches of nearly any composition work very well with Dolcetto.  And for those looking for a different style of wine to pair with chorizo, Dolcetto will work well.  You can even pair the wine with mild fish or shellfish.  Halibut, salmon, scallops, trout and even shrimp, if prepared in a mild tomato based sauce, accented with a little pancetta, sausage or ham, works delightfully.  Add some olives and sautéed onions and you have yourself quite a tasty pairing.  And don’t shy away from enjoying a glass by itself.

The Fun of Pairing Barbera

Thursday, July 28th, 2011

Over the years, I’ve grown to love Barbera wines, made from the eponymous grape variety.  As Piedmont’s most widely planted grape, comprising nearly half of the red-wine grapes planted in northern Italy, it makes for a lively, readily available and affordable wine.

Barbera is remarkable for its diversity of expression as well as terroir.  It can exist as an everyday wine, light and tart or as a hearty and full bodied age worthy candidate.  While the grape is grown in Italy, US, Argentina, Australia, Brazil and Uraguay, it reaches its height in Piedmont, most of what is exported to the US being very good quality and good value, as well.  US styles tend to be somewhat generic in style and can result in mediocre wine, although they can be more full bodied and balanced when yields are low and the winemaking process is controlled.  The take away point here is that not all Barberas are created equal.

A Taste of Italy (and Arizona)

Wednesday, July 27th, 2011

I’m readying myself for our whirlwind voyage to Tuscany and Piedmont later this year so it’s a good time for me to do more Italian tasting.  In that light, this edition of the Best of the Best includes three wines, each profiling a different Italian grape, namely Sangiovese, Nebbiolo and Barbera.  The outlier, but certainly not taking a back seat is a local favorite of mine from Kief Manning.  So, let’s taste…………..

Bruno Giacosa Barbera d’Alba, 2007:

These Best of the Best Are All Just A Shop Away

Friday, May 6th, 2011

It’s always nice to have some “Best of the Best” readily available in your own backyard.  So in this edition, we include four wines that are stocked by local wine shops in Tucson (and likely in Phoenix, as well).

Chalone Chardonnay Chalone, 2008:

Ristorante Italiano Guiseppe’s

Monday, January 24th, 2011

My wife and I finally made a visit, with some friends to the North Oracle “ristorante Italiano” Guiseppe’s last weekend.  The restaurant is run by three partners including Joseph Scordato.  The Scordato family has been in the restaurant business in Tucson for decades with brother Daniel running the well known Vivace’s.  It was heartening to see the restaurant buzzing with activity when we arrived, indoors as well as on the outdoor patio.  We elected to sit outdoors under the heated roof augmented by individual heaters, feeling that with less noise we could actually hear one another.   I started out with their home made Minestrone soup and went on to a very tasty and hearty traditional Farfalle and Bolognese.  This dish was all that it should be, flavored with pork, sausage, beef, prosciutto and accented with carrots, celery and onion in a spicy tomato sauce with a touch of cream added.  My wife ordered the Shrimp Rosso, shrimp sautéed in a white wine demi-glace on a bed of capellini with a touch of tomato sauce while our friends tested the Eggplant Parmesan and the Penne and Sausage.  Everyone applauded the flavorful dishes.

Next up was a wine to pair.  It was heartening to see a wine list full of Italian styles from Chianti, Barbera, Barbaresco and Barolo with many served by the glass.  In the end, we went for the 2006 Produttori del Barbaresco for $45.  Made entirely from Nebbiolo grapes, the wine swirled with fragrances and flavors of black cherry, violets, spice and well structured tannins.  The pairing worked in perfect tandem with all the dishes.  How I love the concept of regionality when it comes to wine and food.

Barbera and Food Pairing

Wednesday, January 19th, 2011

Recently, I tried a little experiment with some wine connoisseurs I know.  I asked them to list three of their favorite food friendly reds.  Interestingly enough, not one of them chose Barbera and it wasn’t because they disliked the wine.  Rather it simply wasn’t on their radar screen.  And clearly, they had not enjoyed one recently enough for it to pop into their mind.

While the Barberas of the past have been challenged by over excessive yields, mediocrity and even a lethal scandal, we have witnessed a surge in quality of these delicious wines over the last twenty years.  You can read more here about the history of the grape and wine.  Barbera is an Italian red grape with one very pronounced attribute that makes it a great wine for food pairing: acidity.  This allows the wine to carry both meat and fish based dishes, especially when sauced.  For those you screaming, “what about the pasta and pizza,” it’s coming.

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