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Posts Tagged ‘Beaune’

Cote de Beaune

Thursday, August 12th, 2010

Making the trek from the Cote de Nuits to Cote de Beaune should not be without a stop in the city of Beaune.  Founded by Julius Caesar as a Roman camp, the city became the seat of the dukes of Burgundy until the 13th century and still remains the center of the Burgundian wine industry.  A single road winds around the city, acting as its perimeter, enclosing a myriad of delightful restaurants, bistros and wine establishments as well as boutique shops.   Try to make your stay over a Saturday as that’s market day from around 7:30AM to 12:30, a festive and energetic display of nearly everything French in food from sausages to fresh vegetables and fruits, meats, roasting chickens, mustards, and flowers.  There are also the classic vendors selling hardware and household good, clothes, jewelry, and more.  During this time, the city closes off much of the center to traffic and by the time you’re finished, you need to pack it down at one of local cafes or bistros for some lunch and drink.

Cote de Beaune extends about 18 miles south of Beaune to Cheilly-les-Maranges, offering a more gentle and expansive view than the Cote de Nuits.  Both red and white wines are produced in this region.  The reds display elegance, softness and finesse yet still possessing an underlying structure but it’s the white Burgundies for which this region is renown,  names such as Batard Montrachet, Corton Charlemagne,  Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet commanding recognition (and pricing).

While the Chardonnay grape grows from Chablis to the Beaujolais region, the southern Maconnais producing more than the rest of Burgundy offering some the best quality for value wines, we’ll focus more specifically upon the Cote de Beaune region.  The villages that stretch from Meursault to Puligny to Chassagne produce some the finest and most pricy Chardonnay in the world.  Montrachet, single Grand Cru vineyard shared by the villages of Puligny and Chassagne, is often the most expensive Chardonnay in the world, a stellar vintage such as the 2005 yielding whites that can go for several hundred to one thousand dollars per bottle.  While the Cote de Nuits has a long history of producing outstanding reds, it’s only since WWII that Chardonnay has displayed its fame in the Chassagne Montrachet vineyard.

When in Beaune, Have Dinner in Caves

Monday, August 2nd, 2010

During our recent visit to France, we made a point of spending a couple of days in Beaune, located at the northern edge of the Cote de Beaune appellation.  The city has quite a history dating back to the time when Julius Caesar founded the town as a Roman camp and later becoming the seat of the dukes of Burgundy until the 13th century.  By the 18th century, Beaune was already on its way to becoming the center of the Burgundy wine industry, establishing houses such as Champy and Bouchard.  Today, you can add names such as Jadot, Latour and Bouchard Pere & Fils.

The city, encircled by a single street, is packed with history (Hotel Dieu, founded by Nocolas Rolin in 1443 and the hospices de Beaune) and quaint boutiques, bistros and restaurants.  The cobblestone streets are intimate, allowing for only one lane of traffic, as browsers casually drift in and out of the stores.  If you’re visiting over a Saturday, be prepared for the very energetic and festive farmers market that literally takes over the center of town from 7:30 in the morning until shortly after noon.  Freshly cultivated culinary goods take front and center stage.  The aromas of fresh vegetables and fruit intermingle with stands of freshly cut provincial flowers.  A few booths down, you begin to pick up the mouth watering scent of freshly roasting chickens on spits.  If you’re in the mood for the raw version or freshly prepared sausage, there are endless choices.  If it’s samples you’re looking for, the vendors will be more than pleased to offer dips of fresh olives, tomatoes, spices and oils.  Then, of course, there are the freshly dried Provencial spices and mustards, both of which we took advantage of by adding to the local economy.  Away from the culinary theme, you’ll find the usual market stables such as outer, underwear, shoes, pocketbooks and the like.  To add “mood’ to the event, a few native Ecuadoran flutists instilled the air with waves of rich musical notes, the melody creating its own sea of tranquility.

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