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Posts Tagged ‘Pillsbury wines’

Why are Locals So Hesitant to Take a Chance on Arizona Wines?

Tuesday, September 7th, 2010

On My MindHaving lived in Tucson for most the 1970’s, the concept of Arizona derived wine grapes and wines was barely in its embryonic stage, Gordon Dutt, a local soil scientist scratching the soil surface in an effort to plan for the future.  Fast forward to 1990 when Kent Callaghan of Callaghan Vineyards (www.callaghanvineyards.com) launched what I consider to be the birth of modern day Arizona based wine.   It wasn’t long before his wines gained some recognition, the 1993 Buena Suerte Cuvee, a blend of Merlot, Cab Sauvignon and Cab France being served in July of 1996 at a White House dinner for the Democratic National Committee.  In 2000, the same wine was served at President Clinton’s last State Dinner for the Prime Minister of India.  Later on, the Callaghan's Claire's 2004, a Mourvedre, Syrah and Petite Sirah blend, was served during President George W. Bush's dinner for retiring U.S. Supreme Court Justice Sandra Day O'Connor, an Arizona native.  Since then, critics from Robert Parker to Gary Vaynerchuk to the Wall Street Journal have praised the progress of Kent’s wines.  Over the last year, none other than the Wine Spectator has praised the progress of other local vintners such as Sam Pillbury(www.pillsburywine.com) , Eric Glomski (www.pagespringscellars.com and www.azstronghold.com) , Maynard James Keenan (www.azstronghold.com and www.caduceus.org)   and Todd Bostock (www.doscabezaswinery.com).  So my question to you is this: with so many knowledge wine professionals recognizing the improvement in quality of our wines as well as their bright future, why are so many locals still hesitant to try an Arizona wine?   Is it a state of denial that a terroir punctuated by searing desert heat in the summer and frosty cold in the winter, by flooding rains, hail storms, and snow can actually grow high quality wine grapes, let alone produce fine wine?  Is it because we have, at our western border, the most recognized domestic giant of the wine world so why take the chance on Arizona wine?  Is it a pricing issue?  Let me address all of these.

It’s not lost on most wine consumers that we live in a hostile and dynamic terroir yet still produce wine.  Witness the killing frost in Sonoita as April turned to May of this year followed by a catastrophic hailstorm just a few weeks back.  We are not the only region that experiences the hostile climate of a semi-desert.  The Mendoza region of Argentina is actually quite similar in terms of climate.  I can’t imagine that our climate dissuades anyone from considering our wines.

Without question, California has wielded a major influence on our universe of wine here in Tucson.  They are ever present as our neighbor and if a country, would be one of largest wine producers by volume in the world.  With over a century and a half of wine history, the region has a strong reputation of quality and accessibility.  So it should come as no surprise that the Arizona wine industry, barely a seedling even at this point, is still viewed by many with uncertainty.   Let me add that in the early days of the California wine industry, the quality of wine was inconsistent, as well.  The same could be said of the Argentinean Mendoza Malbecs, very inconsistent in quality until the last fifteen years.  I think it’s fair to say that the nearby presence of the California wine market has been a challenge to the larger scale acceptance of the Arizona wine industry. 

Could 2009 Be A Breakout Vintage for Arizona Wine?

Thursday, March 4th, 2010

Since the completion of the local harvest last year, I’ve been hearing whispers that the 2009 vintage has the potential to be one of best ever.  Mother nature was fully cooperative, offering up very warm day time temperatures, even at the vineyard elevation (often 4500-5000 feet) but sufficiently cooled nights.  Rainfall was well below the norm, essentially eliminating moisture related disease, and allowing the vintners to tailor irrigation to their specifications.  The only fly in the ointment was a late season hail storm or two in the Sonoita region which may have reduced a crop a little.  So with the grapes in the barrels and tanks and a few whites actually ready for bottling, I was curious to discover how the wines are developing.  For some answers, I spoke with Kent Callaghan (www.callaghanvineyards.com)  and Sam Pillsbury (www.pillsburywine.com)  about the wine’s progress and had the opportunity to taste some barrel samples from Kent as well.  The result……….so far so good, perhaps even excellent.

My wife, Rosalee, and I headed down to Kent’s vineyard last weekend to taste samples from twelve barrels.  I’ll detail these in the next column but suffice it to say that there was not an overly tannic, brut wine in the bunch.  I was suitably impressed that most of the wines have already developed a distinct personality and identity that range from light and delightful with defining acidity to the more structured and muscular.  Kent shared with us that while he used to believe it was imperative to extract from the grape skins until there was no more, he has shifted his approach, balancing the fruit, tannins and acidity with greater precision.  From his samples, I believe that he’s succeeding.  We’ll have a video of our conversation with him as well over the next month so look for that on the Video segment.

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Callaghan Vineyards
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