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Flemings Steakhouse
wine pairing guide

Posts Tagged ‘Pinot Gris’

Catching Up With Kief Manning of Kief Joshua Vineyards

Tuesday, July 19th, 2011

On My MindI had the chance to catch up with Kief Manning recently of Kief Joshua Vineyards.  We hadn’t spoken since out video interview with him in February and I was curious as to how the vines were fairing in the new growing season.  After what was a brutal 2010 with a late season frost at the start and devastating hail storms on the back side, I’m sure that the Sonoita and Elgin vintners were begging for some relief in 2011.  As it turns out, mother nature was not quite finished with her tricks as the 2011 growing season launched with another late season frost in May, delaying the season by nearly a month. 

There is some good news however.  The strong La Nina that influenced our weather in 2010 and early 2011, producing wild weather extremes, has reverted to neutral much more rapidly than expected.  The hope here is that this translates into a more normalized summer and autumn weather pattern.  While there’s a lag time when it comes to changes in large scale weather patterns, it’s encouraging that our summer “monsoon” has commenced with some vigor and right on schedule.

While the frost did some damage to the vines, Kief is encouraged that they are making progress, just very slowly.  In fact, even some of the vines that appeared to be lost from the hailstorm last year are showing some promise.  Veraison, that stunning period of grape color transition from green to purple which, on average, occurs in mid to late July, is delayed by perhaps as much as three to four weeks due to the frost.  If the trend continues, vintners could be harvesting well into October and perhaps even early November.  Of course, this raises the issue of frost risk during some of harvest time. 

Summertime Best of the Best

Wednesday, June 1st, 2011

The Many Faces of Pinot Gris

Tuesday, October 19th, 2010

Pinot Gris (Grigio in Italy) is a highly food friendly and versatile grape, displaying varying nuances depending upon the terroir.  While the Alsatian and Oregon versions are most notable, don’t overlook those from California, France, Australia and yes………….Arizona.

Pinot Gris is a variant clone of the well known Pinot Noir varietal and tends to mature easily with high sugar levels.  This opens the door to everything from sweet wines to dry versions with higher alcohol if fully fermented.  The colors of any vine cluster can range from a blue grey to a pinkish brown.  Like so many of its European cousins, the grape has a long and storied history which dates back to the Middle ages in Burgundy.  The grape was originally called Tokay d’Alsace but was changed to Tokay Pinot Gris as an intermediate step in the 1990’s as Hungary prepared for EU membership.  It has been changed subsequently to the now familiar Pinot Gris.   If there’s one standout region that most identifies with Pinot Gris, it’s Alsace in northeast France.  This is a region that traditionally produces rich and sometimes sweet wines.  Cut off from the rest of France by the Vosges mountains and bordering Germany, the Alsace displays a mixture of both French and German cultures.  The soil composition is one of the more complex in France and ranges from limestone to silicone to alluvial deposits.  You’re likely to find clay, granite and volcanic rock as well as sandy calcareous soils and sandstone.  In addition to the favorable soil profiles, the cool and relatively dry climate makes for an ideal terroir.  Usual long and dry autumns will mild afternoons extend the hang time for the grapes, allowing them to fully mature.

Dreaming of Baja (Chicken)

Thursday, September 30th, 2010

A while back, I stumbled across a dish that’s very easy to prepare and tastes as if it came out the chef’s oven……………It’s Baja chicken.  I’ll post the recipe on our Recipe Book section as well.   I picked up a couple of lean chicken breasts from AJ’s (www.ajsfinefoods.com) .  You can choose from your favorite food retailer but try choose a breast that has none of the rope like white tendons coursing through it.  By the time you tease it out, the integrity of the meat has become overly dissected.

After washing the breast well and patting dry, I gently make a pouch in the middle of the breast.  If the breast is too thin, the knife is likely to slice right through the chicken so try to pick a full one.  I stuff a couple of teaspoons of cream cheese in the pouch and add some sliced Hatch New Mexico smoke roasted chilies.  Make certain to remove the gritty stems.  If you can’t find the Hatch chilies, any flavorful ones will do, although the smoked flavor is a definite plus.  Fold, as best as you can, the edges of the chicken to close the pouch.  Add a little salt and pepper on top of the breast and generously pour some cilantro Caesar dressing over the breast.  If you can’t locate the dressing at your local market, AJ’s sells a homemade dressing/marinade.   I cook the dish covered at 425 for about 40 minutes, remove the foil and cook for another 10 minutes.  What emerges is a rich and creamy chicken dish accented with the smokiness and flavor of the Hatch chili.  It reminds me a wine that’s rich and full bodied yet retaining a spine of acidity.  Taking a lead from the dish’s flavor profile,  I went with a Viognier but a Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc and Oregon or Alsatian Pinot Gris would work equally well.

My Favorite Crustacean: Lobster

Monday, September 13th, 2010

Having been raised in New England, it was impossible for me to NOT be exposed to and fall in love with the taste of lobster.  For me, there was simply nothing like cracking open that just broiled 2 pound lobster, withdrawing the succulent meat and dipping it into freshly melted butter.   There’s something about that sweet and rich flavor intermingled with hints of sea salt that just melts in your mouth.

Lobster can be soft shelled or hard shelled.  The soft shelled version is prevalent earlier in summer season, mainly from July to October.  As these lobsters are fragile and don’t ship well, they’re consumed mostly in nearby New England.  Also, the soft shelled version tends to be a little too delicate to grill.  Some cooks feel that the quality of the meat in soft shells can be as good and tasty as hard shell whereas others claim that there is some dilution of flavor in the former.  While the soft shelled are more convenient to gather, being closer to shore, the hard shelled cousins need to be retrieved from further offshore, from North Carolina to Newfoundland.  Eventually, all of the lobsters become hard shelled from later in October through January.  It’s during this time period that these are very accessible and the pricing usually at its best.  From mid winter into the spring, lobsters that may have been penned up offshore to assure continued access to hungry consumers are made available.  As these lobsters are not living “in the wild,” and foraging as they usually would, some claim that their flavor is not quite as tasty.  Later in the spring, the quality of the meat picks up again, just prior to molting, when the lobster has the most meat.

Planning the Labor Day Food and Wine

Monday, August 30th, 2010

As we close out the summer season with the traditional Labor Day weekend, palates turn to barbecued dishes, seafood and dips.  I’m not yet certain where we’ll fit into this scenario but it’s safe to assume that some of my time will be spent over the hot grill.  With some extra time off, many of us will be afforded the opportunity to celebrate from afternoon to evening over the long holiday weekend.  That, in turn, opens the door to enjoying food and wine from afternoon right into the evening.

If you launch your festivities during the hot afternoon, lighter fare and lighter wines are a great place to start.  For me, I love the idea of some cold, peeled large shrimp.  We mix up a spicy cocktail sauce with horseradish, cilantro and just a touch of fresh lemon juice. Some freshly cut vegetables to pair with humus is a great accompaniment.  And of course, how could you not display a large bowl of festive and colorful chips with salsa and guacamole?  We picked up some smoked Hatch New Mexico chilies last week and I’m sure to be dicing them up in the salsa…….hmmm.

Pairing Goat Cheese and Wine

Wednesday, August 11th, 2010

Cheese and wine are more than natural cousins when it comes to pairing.  Oh yes, there are aromas, flavors and textures to consider, but it says something that both depend upon terroir and age to express their aromatic and flavor profile.

Goat milk (and cheese) tends to be the lowest in fat at 3.5%, followed by cow at 3.7% and sheep at 7.4%. A young goat’s cheese, by virtue of not losing substantial moisture from a long aging process, will have around 6g of fat per ounce vs. 10g for an aged goat cheese where the fat becomes more concentrated.  For comparison sake, prime beef tenderloin contains about 6.5g of fat per ounce whereas king salmon has about 3g.

Foie Gras and Wine

Wednesday, July 21st, 2010

Foie gras is not a menu item, either at home or dining out, that’s on the tip of American’s palates.  Yet leave our shores for France and the delicacy becomes as common as hamburgers and French fries here.

Foie gras is a food product derived from the liver of a specially fattened duck or goose.  Fattening, by French law, is accomplished through forced feeding with corn.  The feed results in high fat deposits in the liver, enlarging the liver by six to ten times its normal size and giving it its rich and creamy texture.  This custom dates back to 2500 BC when Egyptians fattened birds through forced feeding.  The delicacy results in a uniquely creamy, rich and buttery product that differs from classic duck or goose liver.  Hungry also produces its own version of foie gras.

Domaine Zind-Humbrecht Deserves a Spot in Your Cellar

Tuesday, May 11th, 2010

Domaine Zind Humbrecht produces some of the best Rieslings, Gewurztraminer and Pinot Gris that Alsace has to offer.  Best of all, these are wines that can when purchased young can still be enjoyed or laid down, the best for 20+ years.   First a little background about the region and grapes.

Alsace, located in the far northeast region of France, is cut off from the rest of country by the imposing Vosges Mountains to the west while separated to the east from its neighboring Germany by the mighty Rhine.  As you might imagine, the region sports a blend of German and French wines with Riesling and Gewurztraminer representing Germany and Pinot Gris, France as the primary grapes.  Unique to the French Pinot Gris versus alternative regions, is the spicy character of the grape and wine.  The climate of the region offers abundant sunshine and little rainfall and the soils a complex blend of siliceous earth, limestone and hydrous alluvial plains.

Artichokes and Wine: How to Make it Work

Friday, April 9th, 2010

My wife and I enjoy steamed artichokes every now and then.  There’s something fun about dipping the leaves in sauces and dips ranging from a seasoned butter to a creamy, Cajun dip.  The choices are endless.  On the other hand, wine pairing choices are not quite as endless and in fact take a little finesse and experimentation.  Nonetheless, there are wine pairings which work quite well.

Artichokes tend to have a slight bitter yet pleasant taste, mostly due to the plant chemical cynarin, found in the highest concentration in the green leaves of the plant.  Interestingly enough, research scientists have noted that cynarin and additional plant chemicals lower body cholesterol.  Artichokes contain a multitude of acids, amongst them caffeic, caffeoylquinic, chlorogenic, ferulic, glyceric, glycolic, lauric, linolenic, myristic, neochlorogenic, oleic, palmitic, and stearic.  It is a wonder, then, that some people detect some acidity in the leaves? 

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