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Flemings Steakhouse
wine pairing guide

Posts Tagged ‘Sparkling wine’

Prosecco: Champagne’s Little Sibling

Wednesday, February 1st, 2012

Truth be told here, I had very little experience with Prosecco prior to our trip to Tuscany and Piedmont last summer.  THAT changed in a hurry once we were off and running! 

Prosecco makes its roots easy to follow, the name given to the wine, the region and the grapes.  This versatile and bubbly sparkling wine, native to the Veneto region of Italy, is refreshing, tasty, and fun.  The best wines come from Cartizze, a sub-appellation of Conegliano-Valdobbiadene appellation and should be labeled as Superior.  These wines tend to be a little more structured and slightly sweeter than others.  Fortunately for consumers, these names appear on the label.   Prosecco is not a wine meant to compete with Champagne.  Whereas Champagne derives its complex flavor and aromatic profile from the chalky soil of the Champagne region and the long autolysis process breaking down the yeasts yielding rich notes of toast, yeast, and lean citrus, Prosecco is more about ripe fresh fruit, sweetness and a lighter overall style.  It’s this profile that makes the wine so refreshing and food friendly.  Even better, they’re incredibly affordable, most running under $30!  

Prosecco has now surpassed the classic Asti Spumante as Italy’s number one exported sparkling wine, the increased popularity a reflection of the improved quality of these wines over the years due to stricter laws.  The requirement of authentic Prosecco to be limited in production to northeast Italy and be labeled DOC or DOCG has dramatically reduced the inventory of sub-par wines from other regions of Europe.

New Year’s Best of the Best

Tuesday, December 27th, 2011

Hard to believe that 2011 is in the books as we look toward 2012.   I would be remiss if I didn’t mention a few Champagne/sparkling wines.

A Visit With Schramsberg Vineyards: Part II

Tuesday, May 31st, 2011

Q:   Are there plans for new wine ventures at Schramsberg?

A:  We are always looking for ways to improve our wines. One thing we are constantly on the lookout for are new vineyard sources to add to our portfolio. This is something that never stops. In regards to new releases, we have some very exciting wines due out over the next year. For starters, we will be releasing our newest J. Schram Rosé in late 2011. This wine has been sold out for almost two years, as it is not something that we produce every year. Only years that show to be the highest in quality, do we make a J. Schram Rosé. Also, in late 2011, we will be releasing the first of three vineyard designated Pinot Noir table wines, under the Davies Vineyards brand. This is our first venture in making a still table wine with the Pinot Noir grape, but not our first venture in making a still wine. In 2001, we made our first commercial J. Davies Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon. With all of the wonderful vineyard sources that we have established over the years, we thought that producing a Pinot Noir table wine would be a natural progression for what we could do next. The wines are stunning, and we can’t wait to make them available. Finally, 2012 will mark the 150th anniversary of the founding of Schramsberg Vineyards, by Jacob Schram.

Pairing Chenin Blanc

Thursday, February 3rd, 2011

Much like Riesling, Chenin Blanc is a wine around which you could build an entire meal, its versatility opening the door to pairing with everything from an aperitif to dessert.   The style of wine ranges from bone dry Savenierres with mineral driven electrified acidity to medium bodied off dry (just a hint of sweetness) to semi-sweet either medium or full bodied, to late harvest and very rich and sweet botrytized dessert wine.  While the balance of flavor and sweetness can vary, one aspect remains a stable: the driving acidity.  In fact, combine the acidity with the high sugar content and you get a wine that potentially has a good couple of decades of aging potential.   The fun in pairing this wine is all in the style of the wine.  With the ability to tinker with the balance of acidity and sugar, producers can offer a diversity of styles.  If the wine is a dry or off-dry Loire, expect melon, guava, red or yellow apple and quince fruits, possible Chamomile and straw notes, a hint of freshly cut grass and a chalky-mineral driven wine.  As mentioned, the classic bone dry version is from Savenierres.  This style possesses dried apple and quince fruits, dried flowers, freshly cut grass and straw and hints of chalky earth.  The result is a wine with extraordinary structure and capable of aging for decades if stored properly.  Vouvray also produces a notably dry style but not quite as austere.  If you’re searching for an off dry version (one with a little sweetness), think Vouvray and Montlouis with richer flavors of apple, pear and melon.  The wines are often labeled as moelleux or softly sweet.

On the other hand, if the wine is late harvest or botrytized, expect baked apple and ripe cantaloupe, custard, honey, caramel and vanilla.  I once knew someone who swore that he smelled Juicy fruit gum!  This style is quite a treat… rich and luscious.  Look for Quarts de Chaume and Coteaux de Layon wines. 

A Sparkling Gift For the Holidays

Thursday, December 23rd, 2010

There is probably no holiday period more inviting to popping a bottle of bubbly than the end of the year.  The great thing about sparkling wines is that there is so much diversity in style and price, there’s something for everyone, from the classic Champagne to the Cremant (French sparkling wine made outside the Champagne region) to the non-French style of sparkling wine. 

Sparkling wine, however, is not just for celebratory occasions.  It's lively personality is refreshing and cleansing when paired with spicy and fried foods.  Want to try a fun combo?  Try sparkling wine with egg dishes for brunch.  The Blanc de Blancs will tease your palate with aromas of brioche, vanilla, caramel, cinnamon and citrus notes while its sibling, the Blanc de Noirs, will inject some raspberry and cherry.  The Rose style offers a little lighter palate, often with strawberry, cherry and fresh baked bread nuances alongside apple, fig and ginger.

Pairing Sparkling Wine and Food

Monday, December 6th, 2010

With the core of the holiday season fast approaching (already here if you celebrate Chanukah), Sparkling wine (Champagne if produced in the namesake region using Champagne harvested grapes of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir or Pinot Meunier only) will be flowing freely.  While you might think of bubbly for celebration only, it’s ironic that the frothy and fizzy wine pairs with food more easily than most still reds and whites.   This flexibility is due to multiple factors.  They are often lower in alcohol than still wines ( 5-7%), have more acidity which keeps the wine lively and refreshing and they’re produced in a very wide range of styles from light gold to rose.  The level of sweetness can vary as can the origin of the sparkling wine, resulting in wines with even further diversity.  Sparkling wine is produced in many regions around the world from the United States, Spain (Cava), Italy (Prosecco and Brachetto d’Acqui), Samur in the Loire Valley (sparkling Vouvray), Germany and Austria (Sekt) and even Russia.  In addition, the classic Champagne or sparkling wine can be assembled from any of three grapes or a blend:  Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, offering still further combinations.  The latter grape, while not a household name, is a dark grape that lends acidity and aromatics to the wine and as such is widely used in blending.

The lighter lemony and golden colored sparkling wines have their origin in the Chardonnay grape.  The expression “blanc de blancs” (translated white from white reflecting white juice from a white grape) on the front label designates that the wine has been produced exclusively from the Chardonnay grape whether it be a Champagne or other sparkling wine.  These wines tend to work well with a range of food styles and preparations from caviar and shellfish such as clams, mussels, oysters and sushi to a rich and creamy dish such as a foie gras pate and lobster in a butter or cream sauce.  It also wipes the palate clean when paired with oily fried foods.  Salads are a great match with sparkling wine, especially with an acid driven citrusy dressing.  The Italian version, Prosecco, and Spanish style, Cava, tend to be very light, low in alcohol and acid driven, working well with aperitifs. 

Sparkling Wine

Monday, December 6th, 2010

OK…..let’s make this easy……….sparkling wine is any wine that bubbles and froths when poured into a glass.  The bubbles we so enjoy emanate from a carbon dioxide build up in the bottle under pressure and dissolved in the wine.  If the wine is designated as Champagne, it must, by French law derive from the Champagne region and resource only Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier grapes depending upon the style.   While the gold standard of sparkling wine is Champagne from the namesake region of France, many regions throughout the world, including other regions of France, produce excellent sparkling wine.  The Samur region of the Loire is renown for its sparkling Vouray from the Chenin Blanc grape.  In the United States, sparkling wines are produced in many states with some of the finest deriving from Schramsberg in California (www.schramsberg.com)  and Gruet from our next door neighbor New Mexico (www.gruetwinery.com).  Spain produces Cava, it’s version of sparkling wine from non-Champagne grapes while Italy boasts Prosecco and Brachetto d'Acqui, Asti and Lambrusco and Australia, Sparkling Shiraz.  Germany and Austria produce their version (Sekt) and even Russia produces a “Soviet Sparkling wine.”

Sparkling wine can be bottled as either vintage or non-vintage.   The latter represents the majority of the wine produced and is predominated by a base of current vintage blended with some prior vintage wine.  While the "blanc de blancs" (white juice from white grapes) is always 100% Chardonnay (be it Champagne or sparkling wine), the "blanc de noirs" (white juice from from black grapes) version is a bit more fuzzy.  If designated as Champagne, the wine must contain only the pressed juices from Pinot Noir and/or Pinot Meunier grapes.  If designated as sparking wine, it may contain some Chardonnay.  This diversity in production style results in a wines that may display nearly any color, depending upon the grape used and contact of juices with the skins (in the case of reds).  Most commonly, the wine is light golden or pink (Rose) but can be red as with Bourgogne Mousseux or sparkling Shiraz.  The level of sweetness can vary as can the alcoholic strength and even degree of fizziness.  According to EU regulations, the level of sweetness on any EU wine must be displayed on the label.  Those produced outside of the region are not subject to the regulations.

Gruet Winery: Still Sparkling After All These Years

Tuesday, November 30th, 2010

We spent this last Thanksgiving in Santa Fe, New Mexico.  While there, we dined at two outstanding restaurants, Coyote Café (www.coyotecafe.com) and La Casa Sena (www.lacasasena.com).  We’ll have more on that in a future article.  On our way through Albuquerque, we stopped at Gruet winery to film a video and speak with the staff about their popular Sparkling wine and the prestigious United States Wine Producer of the Year award just received at the International Wine and Spirits Competition in London.  The video will air in the near future.

Gruet winery was established in New Mexico by Gilbert Gruet in 1984 after traveling through the southwest U.S. the year prior.  Gruet, who had been producing fine Champagne in Bethon, France since 1952, became intrigued by a group of European winemakers who had successfully planted vineyards near Truth or Consequences, NM.  Using Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes, Gilbert planted an experimental vineyard and soon was joined by his children, Laurent and Nathalie and family friend Fraid Himeur.  Three years later, with machinery shipped from France and an excellent 1987 harvest, Gilbert produced his first two wines, the Gruet Brut N.V. and Gruet Brut Blanc de Noirs, N.V., a total of about 416 cases in a small facility in Albuquerque, NM.  Then in 1989, after the required two years en tirage, the two Sparkling wines were released to the public and, as they say, the rest was history. 

Planning the Labor Day Food and Wine

Monday, August 30th, 2010

As we close out the summer season with the traditional Labor Day weekend, palates turn to barbecued dishes, seafood and dips.  I’m not yet certain where we’ll fit into this scenario but it’s safe to assume that some of my time will be spent over the hot grill.  With some extra time off, many of us will be afforded the opportunity to celebrate from afternoon to evening over the long holiday weekend.  That, in turn, opens the door to enjoying food and wine from afternoon right into the evening.

If you launch your festivities during the hot afternoon, lighter fare and lighter wines are a great place to start.  For me, I love the idea of some cold, peeled large shrimp.  We mix up a spicy cocktail sauce with horseradish, cilantro and just a touch of fresh lemon juice. Some freshly cut vegetables to pair with humus is a great accompaniment.  And of course, how could you not display a large bowl of festive and colorful chips with salsa and guacamole?  We picked up some smoked Hatch New Mexico chilies last week and I’m sure to be dicing them up in the salsa…….hmmm.

Artichokes and Wine: How to Make it Work

Friday, April 9th, 2010

My wife and I enjoy steamed artichokes every now and then.  There’s something fun about dipping the leaves in sauces and dips ranging from a seasoned butter to a creamy, Cajun dip.  The choices are endless.  On the other hand, wine pairing choices are not quite as endless and in fact take a little finesse and experimentation.  Nonetheless, there are wine pairings which work quite well.

Artichokes tend to have a slight bitter yet pleasant taste, mostly due to the plant chemical cynarin, found in the highest concentration in the green leaves of the plant.  Interestingly enough, research scientists have noted that cynarin and additional plant chemicals lower body cholesterol.  Artichokes contain a multitude of acids, amongst them caffeic, caffeoylquinic, chlorogenic, ferulic, glyceric, glycolic, lauric, linolenic, myristic, neochlorogenic, oleic, palmitic, and stearic.  It is a wonder, then, that some people detect some acidity in the leaves? 

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