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wine pairing guide

Posts Tagged ‘Viognier’

Roussanne: A Hidden Gem For Food Pairing

Thursday, April 28th, 2011

Palate & PairingUnless you’re a big Southern Rhone white wine fan, chances are you’ve not experienced the rich and sometimes exotic aromas and flavors of Rousssanne.  It’s a wine that should be on your “to drink” list.  Unfortunately, it’s popularity with vignerons is waning in its home village of Hermitage, the grape challenging to grow and ripen and always having the tendency to oxidize.   While there are single varietal Roussanne’s, the grape finds itself most often as a component of white (blanc) Chateauneuf-du-Pape along with Bourboulenc, Clairette, Grenache Blanc, and Marsanne and occasionally in very small amounts in Hermitage reds.  You’ll also find the grape in the blend of whites from St.-Peray and Crozes-Hermitage.   As a pure varietal, Roussanne is medium-full bodied with exotic personality that includes white cherries, chamomile tea, and herbs.  Occasionally, a hint of bitter citrus peel will sneak through, as well.  These single varietal gems can be just stunning with unique perfume characteristics.  While they’re not very common, Chateau Beaucastel in Chateauneuf-du-Pape produces a blockbuster.

While the “home” of Roussanne is the French Rhone Valley, you can find it in Italy, most often blended with Trebbiano, in Australia as a white Rhone style blend and in California’s Paso Robles and Santa Barbara regions.  If you’re lucky enough to resource a Roussanne blended with Viognier and/or Chardonnay, you’ll discover an exciting and captivating medley of perfumes, flowers and fruits that’s exceptionally food friendly.

With it’s perfumy and rich texture and well balanced acidity, Roussanne is a natural at food pairing, especially with exotic dishes.  North African dishes accented with cumin, ginger, apricots and almonds are simply beautiful with Roussanne.  Thai cuisine that emphasizes curry or Indonesian dishes (satay) with a spiced peanut sauce are just amazing matches.  As Roussanne is higher alcohol than many whites (14.5%), I don’t advise pairing it with hot southwestern spices, however.  The heat from chilis can overly accent the heat of the alcohol while blunting the flavors of the wine.   Thick and creamy dishes accented with butter, nuts and slow cooked root vegetables such as parsnips, carrots, roasted turnips and rutabaga are lovely matches as are richer shellfish such as lobster, crab and scallops.  It’s hard to go wrong with lobster with a little herbed drawn butter and a bottle of Rousssanne.  While many months off, think about a Roussanne or blend with your turkey, goose or ham next Thanksgiving.  It’s a great alternative to Chardonnay.

One Homegrown Wine and Three Internationals in this Edition of Best of the Best

Friday, February 18th, 2011

 Domaine Terlato & Chapoutier Shiraz-Viognier, Victoria, Australia, 2008:

You might blink twice when you see the name Chapoutier and Victoria, Australia.  Working in tandem with Napa Valley vintner Anthony Terlato, the two have teamed up to produce this wonderful Shiraz-Viognier blend.  In the classic northern Rhone style, with 95% Shiraz and 5% Viognier, this wine catapults its aromatic profile out of the glass with a wave of dark berry and spice leading you to think that it’s going to be a “blow your socks off” alcoholic and tannic wine.  But with 14.5% alcohol, the blast of fruit suddenly subsides and softens with nuances of coffee and wet earth seeping into the profile.  With tannins that are present yet restrained, everything is in balance here and should allow the wine to age for a good 5-7 years.  But wait……there’s more (sorry, I couldn’t resist being trite).   The wine is outrageously affordable at ~$20.  Pair this as you would any Shiraz/Syrah, with beefy  and grilled meat dishes, game, poultry, mushrooms and aged cheeses.  Really, this wine is a steal for the quality and age worthiness.

Food Friendly Wine (Gifts) For the Holidays: Whites

Thursday, December 16th, 2010

For the wine enthusiasts on your gift list this holiday season, this is a great time to pick up a favorite wine.  With so many festivities ongoing, there will lots of spirits and wines flowing.  Our spirit contributor, Aaron Defeo, has a great article on affordable spirit gifts over on the Blog……….It’s a must read.   As for wines, here’s my list of the top varietals, beginning with the whites, that make not only great gifts, but pair so easily with food.

1) My top pick for versatility (and age worthiness) would be a Riesling.  This grape provides so much diversity in style from the dry Aussie version to the Alsatian and German Kabinett, Spatlese and Auslese.  With a range of sweetness, outstanding fruits and acidity, it’s nearly impossible not to find one that works for you.  It’s a fabulous counterbalance to spicy curry, sushi, Thai, Chinese and Vietnamese dishes as well as more traditional ham, pork, chicken and duck.  Scallops and sautéed trout are a magnificent match.  And of course, it’s a perfect match with soft cheeses such as triple cream (brie) and the “blues.”  A sweet Spatlese or Auslese elevates any fruit based dessert to a gold star level.  You can scan some names here.

A Local Vintner Makes it on to the List

Tuesday, October 12th, 2010

It’s always heartening to me when one of our locals makes its way on to the Best of the Best.  This issue, it’s Sam Pillsbury and he’s produced a remarkably delicious and fresh Cochise County, Arizona Viognier.

Pillsbury Cochise County Viognier, 2009:

Dreaming of Baja (Chicken)

Thursday, September 30th, 2010

A while back, I stumbled across a dish that’s very easy to prepare and tastes as if it came out the chef’s oven……………It’s Baja chicken.  I’ll post the recipe on our Recipe Book section as well.   I picked up a couple of lean chicken breasts from AJ’s (www.ajsfinefoods.com) .  You can choose from your favorite food retailer but try choose a breast that has none of the rope like white tendons coursing through it.  By the time you tease it out, the integrity of the meat has become overly dissected.

After washing the breast well and patting dry, I gently make a pouch in the middle of the breast.  If the breast is too thin, the knife is likely to slice right through the chicken so try to pick a full one.  I stuff a couple of teaspoons of cream cheese in the pouch and add some sliced Hatch New Mexico smoke roasted chilies.  Make certain to remove the gritty stems.  If you can’t find the Hatch chilies, any flavorful ones will do, although the smoked flavor is a definite plus.  Fold, as best as you can, the edges of the chicken to close the pouch.  Add a little salt and pepper on top of the breast and generously pour some cilantro Caesar dressing over the breast.  If you can’t locate the dressing at your local market, AJ’s sells a homemade dressing/marinade.   I cook the dish covered at 425 for about 40 minutes, remove the foil and cook for another 10 minutes.  What emerges is a rich and creamy chicken dish accented with the smokiness and flavor of the Hatch chili.  It reminds me a wine that’s rich and full bodied yet retaining a spine of acidity.  Taking a lead from the dish’s flavor profile,  I went with a Viognier but a Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc and Oregon or Alsatian Pinot Gris would work equally well.

Taking a Lesson From Some of the Best

Tuesday, September 21st, 2010

I was fortunate enough recently to be surrounded by family and friends as I celebrated my 60th.  It was an energetic affair catered by Jax Kitchen (www.jaxkitchen.com) with wines supplied by me.  This was a great opportunity for me to pair some of the wines I had been waiting to enjoy with the outstanding cuisine of Jax.  While I’m always tempted to crack open a great wine early, just for the experience of it, I tend to be pretty good about letting them rest until they’re ready for drink.  We worked closely together to synchronize the dishes, style preparation and accents.  You can learn more about this process by clicking here for Part I and Part II of our wine and food pairing series.

E. Guigal La Doriane Condrieu, 2007:

A Yearning For Sea Scallops

Wednesday, September 15th, 2010

We dined on Sea Scallops recently at a party we sponsored at our home.  The experience reminded me of my New England roots and reignited my appetite for this delicious mollusk.   If you’re serving scallops, either as an appetizer or an entre, go with the Diver version. These are scooped up by hand off the ocean bottom by divers, allowing them to select only those that are mature with firm, plump flesh.  They tend to be far less gritty than those dredged by nets and usually find their way to market faster than those retrieved by net.  While they’re more expensive than the alternative, I think it’s worth it.  Besides, it’s a little more of an ecologically friendly method.

To satisfy my yearning for scallops, I searched out an easy recipes from Thomas Keller’s book: Ad Hoc at Home.   This is about as simple as it gets.  It’s his recipe for Caramelized Sea Scallops that serves 6 (ok, maybe 4 if you’re particularly hungry). He combines kosher sea salt with 2 cups of water and brings it to a boil, making certain that the salt has fully dissolved.  Add 8 cups of cold water and then the sea scallops to allow them to brine.  Allow to stand for 10 minutes but no longer as the scallops will become too salty.  Drain, rinse the scallops and arrange in a single layer on a baking sheet lined with paper towels.

My Favorite Crustacean: Lobster

Monday, September 13th, 2010

Having been raised in New England, it was impossible for me to NOT be exposed to and fall in love with the taste of lobster.  For me, there was simply nothing like cracking open that just broiled 2 pound lobster, withdrawing the succulent meat and dipping it into freshly melted butter.   There’s something about that sweet and rich flavor intermingled with hints of sea salt that just melts in your mouth.

Lobster can be soft shelled or hard shelled.  The soft shelled version is prevalent earlier in summer season, mainly from July to October.  As these lobsters are fragile and don’t ship well, they’re consumed mostly in nearby New England.  Also, the soft shelled version tends to be a little too delicate to grill.  Some cooks feel that the quality of the meat in soft shells can be as good and tasty as hard shell whereas others claim that there is some dilution of flavor in the former.  While the soft shelled are more convenient to gather, being closer to shore, the hard shelled cousins need to be retrieved from further offshore, from North Carolina to Newfoundland.  Eventually, all of the lobsters become hard shelled from later in October through January.  It’s during this time period that these are very accessible and the pricing usually at its best.  From mid winter into the spring, lobsters that may have been penned up offshore to assure continued access to hungry consumers are made available.  As these lobsters are not living “in the wild,” and foraging as they usually would, some claim that their flavor is not quite as tasty.  Later in the spring, the quality of the meat picks up again, just prior to molting, when the lobster has the most meat.

Exploring Northern Rhone Part I: The Cote-Rotie

Thursday, August 26th, 2010

The Rhone River was born high up on the Swiss Alps, starting as melt water at the foot of the Rhone glacier.  The river enters into Lake Geneva where it acquires dual citizenship, half French and half Swiss.  From the Lake, the river winds its way through the Jura and is joined by the Saone in Lyon.  The full flowing river displays itself in earnest near Vienne, carving a deep rift through the valley and flowing south where eventually it serenely empties into the Mediterranean.  It’s along this stretch that the 125 mile Cotes du Rhone appellation winds its way from Vienne to Avignon, encompassing the Northern and Southern Rhone.

Northern Rhone:   This region, winding its way along the mighty Rhone River, extends from Vienne to Valence.  The steep valley walls are lined, nearly continuously, with vineyards along the entire route.  This approach dates back to the Roman era, workers employing a technique developed for the steep and rocky slopes of the region.  It’s nearly impossible to travel the region along the Rhone and not be in awe of the valley vineyards carved deeply into the steep hillsides.  When we begin our video series with Guigal and Chapoutier, we’ll show you first hand the layout.

Artichokes and Wine: How to Make it Work

Friday, April 9th, 2010

My wife and I enjoy steamed artichokes every now and then.  There’s something fun about dipping the leaves in sauces and dips ranging from a seasoned butter to a creamy, Cajun dip.  The choices are endless.  On the other hand, wine pairing choices are not quite as endless and in fact take a little finesse and experimentation.  Nonetheless, there are wine pairings which work quite well.

Artichokes tend to have a slight bitter yet pleasant taste, mostly due to the plant chemical cynarin, found in the highest concentration in the green leaves of the plant.  Interestingly enough, research scientists have noted that cynarin and additional plant chemicals lower body cholesterol.  Artichokes contain a multitude of acids, amongst them caffeic, caffeoylquinic, chlorogenic, ferulic, glyceric, glycolic, lauric, linolenic, myristic, neochlorogenic, oleic, palmitic, and stearic.  It is a wonder, then, that some people detect some acidity in the leaves? 

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